Avg: 3.4 from 181 votes
Routes in Thin Air Face
|Adventures in 3D T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|DMZ T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13|
|Diagonal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Freedom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Lancelot Link/ Secret Chimp T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Missing Link T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|No Mans Land T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X|
|Pro Choice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Rapid Transit T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Repulsion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Saigons, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Thin Air T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Thinner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Toe Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Turner's Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Windfall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Worm Drive S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Todd Swain and Brad White 1980 (Repulsion, i dont know if this pitch was already done)|
|Page Views:||14,873 total, 115/month|
|Shared By:||lee hansche on Apr 20, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionThough Toe Crack is not its own route it is done on its own more often than not so I figured I'd add it as a route.... It is actually the second pitch of Repulsion (5.8+) which is not too popular due to being a bit spicy.... If you are looking to climb a perfect 5.7 hand crack, Toe Crack is for you for sure...It is also one of the first cracks to dry after rain which adds to its allure....
Pitch 1: (5.5) Start on the ramp that leads up and right to Turner's Flake.... When you get under Turner's, step down and right (tricky at the grade) and over to a stance below the beautiful crack.... Belay from here or keep climbing but think of rope drag and your partners safety on the traverse move and protect accordingly....
Pitch 2: (5.7) Climb the crack for about 100ft. It doesn't get much finer at the grade.... a #3 cam is helpful and you may want a 3.5 if you are shaky at the grade...The jams are good and so are the feet, but the gear is a little weird in parts 'cause the crack isn't perfectly splitter.... Just look at your cams before you move on instead of stuffing them blindly (always a bad idea).... When the crack ends, move right into Standard Route (5.7) and belay at a fixed rap anchor on a tree or build and anchor at a thread...One rap with double ropes gets you back to the ground....
Finish: you have choices if you don't feel like rappeling.... You can continue up Standard Route (5.7) or Repulsion (5.8+), or trail blaze left on fun, low-angle, face climbing (it protects well but you can't really tell from below) over to the 2nd belay on Thin Air (5.6) and finish up that....
LocationJust right of Turner's Flake (5.8) look for the hard to miss perfect hand crack, that screams to be climb....
Two rope rap to the ground from the standard route belay.