Avg: 3.4 from 279 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Todd Swain and Brad White 1980 (Repulsion, i dont know if this pitch was already done)|
|Page Views:||21,479 total · 122/month|
|Shared By:||Lee Hansche on Apr 20, 2007 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
Pitch 1: (5.5) Start on the ramp that leads up and right to Turner's Flake.... When you get under Turner's, step down and right (tricky at the grade) and over to a stance below the beautiful crack.... Belay from here or keep climbing but think of rope drag and your partners safety on the traverse move and protect accordingly....
Pitch 2: (5.7) Climb the crack for about 100ft. It doesn't get much finer at the grade.... a #3 cam is helpful and you may want a 3.5 if you are shaky at the grade...The jams are good and so are the feet, but the gear is a little weird in parts 'cause the crack isn't perfectly splitter.... Just look at your cams before you move on instead of stuffing them blindly (always a bad idea).... When the crack ends, move right into Standard Route (5.7) and belay at a fixed rap anchor on a tree or build and anchor at a thread...One rap with double ropes gets you back to the ground....
Finish: you have choices if you don't feel like rappeling.... You can continue up Standard Route (5.7) or Repulsion (5.8+), or trail blaze left on fun runout, low-angle, face climbing (the thing air face climb protects well but you can't really tell from below) over to the 2nd belay on Thin Air (5.6) and finish up that....
Two rope rap to the ground from the standard route belay.