Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches
FA: Todd Swain and Brad White 1980 (Repulsion, i dont know if this pitch was already done)
Page Views: 19,733 total · 121/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 20, 2007 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Though Toe Crack is not its own route it is done on its own more often than not so I figured I'd add it as a route.... It is actually the second pitch of Repulsion (5.8+) which is not too popular due to being a bit spicy.... If you are looking to climb a perfect 5.7 hand crack, Toe Crack is for you for sure...It is also one of the first cracks to dry after rain which adds to its allure....

Pitch 1: (5.5) Start on the ramp that leads up and right to Turner's Flake.... When you get under Turner's, step down and right (tricky at the grade) and over to a stance below the beautiful crack.... Belay from here or keep climbing but think of rope drag and your partners safety on the traverse move and protect accordingly....

Pitch 2: (5.7) Climb the crack for about 100ft. It doesn't get much finer at the grade.... a #3 cam is helpful and you may want a 3.5 if you are shaky at the grade...The jams are good and so are the feet, but the gear is a little weird in parts 'cause the crack isn't perfectly splitter.... Just look at your cams before you move on instead of stuffing them blindly (always a bad idea).... When the crack ends, move right into Standard Route (5.7) and belay at a fixed rap anchor on a tree or build and anchor at a thread...One rap with double ropes gets you back to the ground....

Finish: you have choices if you don't feel like rappeling.... You can continue up Standard Route (5.7) or Repulsion (5.8+), or trail blaze left on fun runout, low-angle, face climbing (the thing air face climb protects well but you can't really tell from below) over to the 2nd belay on Thin Air (5.6) and finish up that....

Location

Just right of Turner's Flake (5.8) look for the hard to miss perfect hand crack, that screams to be climb....

Two rope rap to the ground from the standard route belay.

Protection

Normal rack to #3.5 Camalot....

Photos