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Routes in Thin Air Face

Adventures in 3D T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
DMZ T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Diagonal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Freedom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lancelot Link/ Secret Chimp T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Missing Link T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Mans Land T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Pro Choice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rapid Transit T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Repulsion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Saigons, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thin Air T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thinner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Toe Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turner's Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Windfall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Worm Drive S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Todd Swain and Brad White 1980 (Repulsion, i dont know if this pitch was already done)
Page Views: 14,873 total, 115/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 20, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Though Toe Crack is not its own route it is done on its own more often than not so I figured I'd add it as a route.... It is actually the second pitch of Repulsion (5.8+) which is not too popular due to being a bit spicy.... If you are looking to climb a perfect 5.7 hand crack, Toe Crack is for you for sure...It is also one of the first cracks to dry after rain which adds to its allure....

Pitch 1: (5.5) Start on the ramp that leads up and right to Turner's Flake.... When you get under Turner's, step down and right (tricky at the grade) and over to a stance below the beautiful crack.... Belay from here or keep climbing but think of rope drag and your partners safety on the traverse move and protect accordingly....

Pitch 2: (5.7) Climb the crack for about 100ft. It doesn't get much finer at the grade.... a #3 cam is helpful and you may want a 3.5 if you are shaky at the grade...The jams are good and so are the feet, but the gear is a little weird in parts 'cause the crack isn't perfectly splitter.... Just look at your cams before you move on instead of stuffing them blindly (always a bad idea).... When the crack ends, move right into Standard Route (5.7) and belay at a fixed rap anchor on a tree or build and anchor at a thread...One rap with double ropes gets you back to the ground....

Finish: you have choices if you don't feel like rappeling.... You can continue up Standard Route (5.7) or Repulsion (5.8+), or trail blaze left on fun, low-angle, face climbing (it protects well but you can't really tell from below) over to the 2nd belay on Thin Air (5.6) and finish up that....

Location

Just right of Turner's Flake (5.8) look for the hard to miss perfect hand crack, that screams to be climb....

Two rope rap to the ground from the standard route belay.

Protection

Normal rack to #3.5 Camalot....
Ryan Christopher
Biddeford, ME
Ryan Christopher   Biddeford, ME
Second on the R rating for the traverse to Thin Air. Only one piece of pro for the second.

With a steady head its an easy climb. Have a confident second. Sep 20, 2017
Jay Stanley
  5.7
Jay Stanley  
  5.7
if you plan to cross over into thin air, belay from the nasty cave and start directly at the top of toe crack. I belayed from above the boulder/cave on the tree, then did a boulder problem into P3 of standard route (there appears to be two) and crossed from the second tree. this traverse was ~50ft of 5.5 with only one piton. not hard, but kind of R, especially for the second Jul 31, 2017
Systematic  
 
Killer route. First pitch much less so.

3-4" gear is useful as are big nuts. Nov 4, 2015
Both of the choices for "first pitch" are tricky!! The Turner's Flake way is a nasty, awkward traverse, both on lead and the follower!! And then theres the 5.8 face straight below.... wow kinda no win Oct 21, 2015
ChrisN
Morro Bay, CA
 
ChrisN   Morro Bay, CA
 
The direct first pitch 5.8 start (Retaliation) is useful in that you can run both pitches together without too much rope drag, but if you can't get a tricam in the sort of nothing cracks up there, the slab moves will be fairly heady for the leader... the pro will likely be at or below your feet... Oct 7, 2015
Ryan Gibbs  
 
Having just followed the route from Toe Crack to Thin Air I can attest that it can really go either way. The traverse to thin air is tricky to protect, but solely dependent on the route taken.(Several variations high and low, the high line has great feet that link across two grassy spots and thin face hands (awkward pro), whereas if you were lower you would have great hands and protection, but terrible feet) The placements along the high route seemed tricky. Like Lee said if you are solid in the grade and feel comfortable there are spots to protect the route. A fall here either as a leader or second could be disastrous. Sep 22, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
there is some small gear, some tricky placements and whether you find the right spots will depend on the exact line you take... if you are good with gear craft and comfortable at the grade it shouldn't be a big deal and you should be able to keep it safe... but i wouldn't bring a total beginner up there as a second unless i knew exactly where i was going... all i can say since its been a few years since ive done it... Oct 10, 2013
Some are saying the traverse to Thin Air protects well, others claim the protection is non-existent. Anyone able to elaborate? Oct 10, 2013
I did this route straight up from the stairway looking dike. I also did the whole thing in one pitch. No need to break it up into two, just don't get caught up with rope drag in the beginning of the climb. I linked this climb up with Thin Air. You can do two rappels with a 60 meter rope. Jun 11, 2013
dale polen
arivaca, az
dale polen   arivaca, az
Barefoot climbing heaven. Did this after leaving the Moat at last call, on a full moon night. It was snowing too. But love this climb barefoot. Dec 15, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
yeah man that sounds rad Jan 17, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Not an easier option really but more direct (and fun) is to start up the first pitch of Repulsion (5.8) it is a slab and crack pitch leading up directly under the Toe Crack...
Start up a dike to a bolt then move left on tricky moves between finger cracks protected by TCUs then over a slight bulge to belay at the base of Toe Crack... Jan 17, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
yeah i agree completely that is really the hardest move on that pitch it is alot of fun though Jan 17, 2009
rdlennon
New Hampshire
  5.7
rdlennon   New Hampshire
  5.7
Hm, on pitch 1, I think the crux is before you reach Turner's, on the hand traverse once the ramp ends. And as you approach the belay ledge, it is helpful to place as high in the crack as possible so as to protect the second, then downclimb it to the ledge. Jan 17, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
Great route my climbing partner Gary's hand actually got stuck in the crack, great fun... Dec 28, 2008
Bill Hutchins
Bethesda, MD
  5.7
Bill Hutchins   Bethesda, MD
  5.7
Great route. From the end of the crack one can climb the arete above to a belay on right in the Standard Route Crack. An option from there is to traverse high across the face to the third belay ledge on Thin Air. Aim for a right facing corner with a tree. The belay is just above the corner. The traverse is easy (5.3?) but unprotected. Oct 6, 2007
Ian McEleney
Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
Ian McEleney   Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
What a great route. The traverse left to Thin Air is fun and easy. You can also rap from those anchors with two ropes, or a set just below with a 70m. May 26, 2007