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Routes in Thin Air Face

Adventures in 3D T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
DMZ T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Diagonal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Freedom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lancelot Link/ Secret Chimp T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Missing Link T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Mans Land T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Pro Choice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rapid Transit T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Repulsion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Saigons, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thin Air T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thinner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Toe Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turner's Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Windfall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Worm Drive S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 260 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ed Webster & Kurt Winkler, Oct 31, 1985
Page Views: 3,815 total, 29/month
Shared By: jeremyadams on Feb 25, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Tricky, cruxy slab climbing with well-spaced fixed gear: it's Rapid Transit, and it's a great route to get your heart pumping. That said, the crux is well-protected by a shiny bolt.

Location

Begin by sprinting up p1 of Thin Air to the bong anchors. Trend up and left through the crux, then further left to a ledge for belay. Pitch two is more mellow at 5.9.

Protection

Some fixed gear, well-spaced. Bring a light rack for between the bolts and pins.
Rob Albert
  5.10a/b PG13
Rob Albert  
  5.10a/b PG13
Fell off the crux of this thing again on Saturday. If you were on the Thin Air wall, yes, that was me screaming on the way down. Hurt my hip and ankle a little, I would definitely call this PG-13. Not sure how else to do it... Will have to go back again on a crisper day. I tried going the low road on the crux. Which way do you guys go?

Only gear needed: slings/ QDs and a purple C4. I didn't bother with the pin scar or other placements, as the run outs felt like normal Conway run outs; unprotected easy climbing followed by 2 bolts protecting the crux moves. Jun 13, 2016
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
I onsighted this a few weekends ago. There is no pin on the wide ledge, at least I couldnt find it. There is a cam tho. Sep 7, 2013
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
Realistically, how bad are the runouts on this? Aug 4, 2013
Chris Graham
Bartlett, NH
Chris Graham   Bartlett, NH
Onsighted this one today...only took me 25 years to try it!! I can totally see why (lol). Fantastic route! Oct 10, 2010
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
f/a Webster/Winkler I'm pretty sure. May 3, 2010
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
Hey Brendan, I did it again this weekend. Between the bong belay and first crux bolt there is a bolt, hidden piton in a corner, and a good pin scar taking the bite out of most of that run out. May 3, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i just got around to climbing this route today and i find it worthy of a detailed description...

Pitch 1: Climb thr first pitch of thin air to the bong anchor, clip it and head straight up to a bolt above... At the bolt angle left to the right side of a wide ledge... There is a pin on the ledge. Heading up from here at about 5.8 you clip another bolt and things get tricky fast so rope drag could be a problem, i recommend long slings on everything up to here... The holds get thin and you need to figure a way to the bolt above i hear that staying right of the bolt is the easier way but i couldnt figure it out so i went left and up on a hard slabby mantel move to gain a horizontal crack and that bolt you wanted... traverse left on slopey feet to a few easy mantel moves and the 2 bolt anchor...

Pitch 2: Much more straight forward in line and route finding... From the belay head up past a pin to the small overlap above... Pull the move to get over it (the best move on the route i think) and follow a few bolts to another steep section... Crimp through a few tricky moves and head left and up to the anchor... Rap from here or head over and finish up Miss Saigon (5.8+) Jun 30, 2008