Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Mike Stutz, Sam Streibert, 8/70
Page Views: 792 total · 19/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jun 18, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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obvious diagonal dike that begins on Standard Route too tight awkward chimney variation to tree belay on Standard route. Ascend easy run out dike to belay 40 ft to belay. Finish dike crack to belay right below the extremely inclined diagonal crux crack at two bolts. Climb crux with plausible gear to wide crack to the top. This climb thwarted local climbers for years. The crux unnervingly technical plausible situation protection below moves. This climb easy to go mental by the exposure. its dramatic but too easy besides the crux. Much of the climb is high up on the Mordor Wall section of cliff. Poison Ivy grows on route near to the top easily avoided.


Begin with Standard chimney variation to the tree belay. Walk down from the top.


Bolts and trad gear.


john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
A nice bit of humor bradley..5.8 plus what ?This is a kinda wild crux, could go a ways if your not careful with gear.

The diagonal dike itself is a great bit of easy, run out climbing with a dramatic rappel off over the Mordor Wall ( 2 ropes)

The Flying Physicist, Bruce Kumphf, fell 160' attempting the f/a rope solo Jun 23, 2015
bradley white
bradley white   Bend
Ted Hammond led the crux and about that guide book it did say 8+. Its a technical gem too not think about protection. Soloing has its ups and WTF downs. Jun 24, 2015