Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: swain/cody 82
Page Views: 1,004 total · 9/month
Shared By: john strand on Apr 6, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Worth doing especially if saigon is full. Decent rock and nice climbing, though sometimes wet. A companion route Rose Madder is also usually wet.

Location

Just left of Saigon 15' before all the grung. Rap off- 60m rope ???

Protection

a couple of bolts (maybe 1 dowel) and maybe a small piece for the runout (5.6/7) , bolt anchor

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Mike Z
Mike Z
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6 Comments

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Andrew Hewitt
Somerville
  5.9- PG13
Andrew Hewitt   Somerville
  5.9- PG13
A 60m rope will not get you down from the rappel if you climb all the way to Airation Buttress (in fact I'm not really sure you're supposed to go all the way up there - just what I did). You can rap to another rap station about halfway down though. Very fun route at the beginning, but if you're not comfortable running out 5.6 terrain for 40 or so feet at the top, maybe not a good choice. You do get a small cam placement at the top however. Sep 28, 2015
john strand
southern colo
  5.9-
john strand   southern colo
  5.9-
is the belay gone ? it was maybe 90' up. 3 bolts Sep 28, 2015
Andrew Hewitt
Somerville
  5.9- PG13
Andrew Hewitt   Somerville
  5.9- PG13
Maybe I just totally missed it - but I didn't see any other bolts after the last one except for a station about 20 feet right of that last bolt. Is that where the climb is supposed to end? I just kept going straight up! Sep 29, 2015
john strand
southern colo
  5.9-
john strand   southern colo
  5.9-
maybe it took a hit from the recent rockfall ? There's also a route just left Rose Madder that i think has a higher belay Sep 29, 2015
Andrew Hewitt
Somerville
  5.9- PG13
Andrew Hewitt   Somerville
  5.9- PG13
I must have climbed Rose Madder then. There were maybe 4-5 bolts/pins (it seems like it shares the first two bolts of DMZ) and it went straight up through the mini roof in the pic here. Thanks for the info! Sep 29, 2015
Dominic Tracey
 
Dominic Tracey  
 
Didn't see any anchors until the two bolt anchor at the bottom of Goofer's Delight so maybe they got chopped? I stayed left (Rose & Madder I think?). The hardest moves are off the deck with the first two bolts. You then get two bolts and no gear for the next 100' of easier climbing. Just before topping out at the Airation Buttress you get a .5 (green camalot) that you can back up with a smaller cam. Water runs over this so it's pretty dirty and I had a foot blow so check the rock quality as you go. Aug 22, 2017