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Routes in Thin Air Face

Adventures in 3D T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
DMZ T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Diagonal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Freedom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lancelot Link/ Secret Chimp T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Missing Link T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Mans Land T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Pro Choice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rapid Transit T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Repulsion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Saigons, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thin Air T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thinner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Toe Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turner's Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Windfall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Worm Drive S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Mark Lawrance, kurt Winkler spring 1971
Page Views: 1,420 total, 11/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 18, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Due to a cool head and good judgment, there are few times in my climbing career that I have truly thought that I might die...My first lead of this route is one of the elite few.... My belayer never knew it, but inside I thought I was about to take the screamer of a life time...But let's take a step back shall we....

After locating the right-facing corner left of Turner's Flake, climb the face up to it and follow nice moves up the corner and on the face to the left with decent protection.... At this point I'm saying to my self "R rated? Whatever, the pro seems pretty good" eventually you clip a pin and the corner runs out...And so do you...There is a place to protect maybe 10 feet above the pin though its a bit tricky, these days I might have used it a bit better, but I was somewhat new to trad climbing (it's a place where you can thread a nut or a very thin sling)....
At this point, it is a series of mantel moves like many of the routes on this wall...mantel after mantel and then you look down at how far you are above the last piece of marginal gear, wow.... This brings us back to the story....

I looked down at the pin which was the last good piece and did the math if I fell. I'd be going a very long way, and the good holds ran out.... I kept it cool and committed, but inside I was picturing the 70 foot fall I figured I'd take if i blew the move.... This image stayed with me as I moved up on the slippery crimps and a bad foot that started to slip as I lunged for the ledge....And stuck it.... I mantled up and took a deep breath, a dude at the Thin Air belay looked down with wide eyes and said "wow, that was cool".... "Thanks", I said masking my relief and looking like I do that all the time.... I set up the belay and got on with my day, but Thinner had left its mark and made me a wiser man....

I've done many sketchy routes since, but I go in to them with an understanding of what I'm getting in to.... I recommend you do the same....

Location

To the right of Thin Air (5.6), left of Turner's Flake (5.8)...look for the right-facing corner below the 2nd anchor on Thin Air....

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

petr07 Lindahl
  5.8 PG13
petr07 Lindahl  
  5.8 PG13
I found the protection to be there and sufficient for a PG-13 feeling, but I also felt these spots for protection could easily be missed. In any case a very fun climb. Sep 15, 2017
Jason Scott Heacock
Milford, NH
 
Jason Scott Heacock   Milford, NH
 
This is a route not to pass up, and not to take lightly. We did this route this weekend after climbing Wavelength on Whitehorse and somehow I forgot about the "R" rating for Thinner. I found myself a little too far left for the marginal gear placement and did not see it anyway.

The upper moves, where the gear runs out is fresh on your mind, seemed more like 5.9 but maybe I missed the beta? This is a stout route to get your trad head back for the season! Apr 17, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Thanks and yes, just left of Windfall. May 10, 2015
Jason Scott Heacock
Milford, NH
 
Jason Scott Heacock   Milford, NH
 
Is this route directly to the left of Windfall? I believe I climbed Windfall last season but cannot recall what was to the left.... Great description Lee! May 8, 2015
sibylle Hechtel
Colorado
 
sibylle Hechtel   Colorado
 
Hmmm - this is where I learned to lead years ago, when I was in my teens. I think it was one of my first leads, and I guess I thought leading was always like that .... isn't it? I mean, it wasn't much better when I got to the Yosemite and the Apron, with 50-foot run outs as the norm. Apr 30, 2013
christa  
Bring all your small C3s, some micro nuts and some creativity.... May 14, 2012
dale polen
arivaca, az
dale polen   arivaca, az
Great climb with good gear. A bit run out but really good. This is a great barefoot climb. Dec 15, 2011
Michael Z.  
 
A fun and committing lead. Even with a small cam above the pin and a couple of creative nut placements, there is little security when mantling up the face! Drys quickly after a rain though. Aug 28, 2011
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Once i saw kurt leading this climb and "testing" the pin by tapping it with a biner. Seemed OK Jul 13, 2010
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  5.8 R
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  5.8 R
Make sure your 5.8 hat is firmly on before you launch off the pillar. 3 placements of questionable quality in 35'-40' of climbing. The climbing is all easy, but had me a little gripped. Great route for the committing nature on moderate climbing!

For more spice I recommend climbing slightly hungover on a day with 100% humidity. Jul 12, 2010
Great story, and a good description as well. What an intense experience! Sep 24, 2007