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Routes in Thin Air Face

Adventures in 3D T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
DMZ T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Diagonal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Freedom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lancelot Link/ Secret Chimp T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Missing Link T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Mans Land T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Pro Choice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rapid Transit T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Repulsion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Saigons, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thin Air T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thinner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Toe Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turner's Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Windfall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Worm Drive S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 340 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Variations by J. Porter, P. Ostrowski, 1971 M. Heintz, P. Ross, A. Ross, 1978 E. Webster and K. Winkler, 1985
Page Views: 125 total, 3/month
Shared By: Sprax Lines on Oct 3, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

P1: Start down and right of Thin Air and climb the face, protecting wherever possible (thin). Stop and belay at a ledge about 10' below the Thin Air traverse (80', 5.8R), or keep going, as we did, to the bushy ledge above the traverse (120').
P2: From the bushy ledge, climb the face (left arching flakes) to a stance below the right end of a prominent overlap. Find decent placements here if you can -- I struggled with the crumbly cracks for quite a while. Then fire the undercling traverse (5.9+ crux) to where you can escape through a weakness in the overlap. (My first undercling hold disintegrated in my hand; hopefully yours won't!) Easier vertical climbing leads to a ledge (80 to 120 feet, depending on where you end P1, 5.9+).
P3: Move right and up to bolt 1 of 3, then up and left to bolt 2. Ignoring any bolts up to the left, move back right and up to bolt 3 at a small head wall, which takes you to the anchor (100', 10b).
P4: Climb a corner to the top (40', 5.7). This short pitch might be dirty and/or it might be fun, but I don't know, because we rapped down to where we could traverse over to finish on Thin Air.

Location

Start about 20 feet right of Thin Air, well to the left of Turner's Flake. This may be the same start as for Thinner, but stay on the face left of the right-facing corner. Aim for the bushy ledge above the Thin Air traverse. Top out at the base of Airation Buttress, just left of the top of Thin Air.

Protection

Small wires for P1. My partner felt that the RP placements made it PG instead of R, but the other pitches seemed bold, too. Medium cams for P2. P3 has only 3 bolts for 100 feet of climbing.

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