Lancelot Link/ Secret Chimp
Avg: 3 from 7 votes
Routes in Thin Air Face
|Adventures in 3D T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|DMZ T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13|
|Diagonal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Freedom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Lancelot Link/ Secret Chimp T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Missing Link T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|No Mans Land T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X|
|Pro Choice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Rapid Transit T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Repulsion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Saigons, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Thin Air T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Thinner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Toe Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Turner's Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Windfall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Worm Drive S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft|
|FA:||Steve Wooding, Dave McDermott '89|
|Page Views:||839 total, 10/month|
|Shared By:||E thatcher on Oct 4, 2010|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionWhile considered a variation on Missing link, Lancelot link provides an entirely different, and in my opinion, superior experience.
Find your way to the two bolt anchor for windfall. One can climb Thinner, Windfall, Freedom, Pro Choice, Turners Flake or Toe Crack to approach. I find that Freedom or windfall are the best as it makes for a very consistent link up grade wise.
From the anchor, move up and right over some considerably runout 5.easy terrain, aiming for a crack that leads to the unmistakable yellow roofs. There are several pins hidden behind flakes in this area. Depending on where you wonder you may come across them.
Clip a pin at the start of the crack and move up into the first small roof. Pull this (the crux of ML), and aim for the left end of the large roofs on the right. Reach over and clip the bolt, traverse a hair right and pull the roof on some of the most atypical moves you'll find at Cathedral.
After the roof you'll encounter another bolt followed by some heads up (r/pg-13) 5.7 climbing trending right into the Standard Route Chimney. Pick a tree to belay. Finish by scrambling up the Chimney.
LocationThe route is located at the extreme right end of the Thin Air face. It starts at a bolt belay below the Thin Air pedestal, pulls the awesome looking yellow roofs to the right of the pedestal, and finishes in the Standard Route Chimney.
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