No Mans Land
Avg: 2.2 from 13 votes
Routes in Thin Air Face
|Adventures in 3D T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|DMZ T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13|
|Diagonal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Freedom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Lancelot Link/ Secret Chimp T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Missing Link T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|No Mans Land T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X|
|Pro Choice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Rapid Transit T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Repulsion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Saigons, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Thin Air T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Thinner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Toe Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Turner's Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Windfall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Worm Drive S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 130 ft|
|FA:||T Swain' K Speckman May1980|
|Page Views:||1,767 total, 14/month|
|Shared By:||lee hansche on Jul 25, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionI found this route to be super fun and exciting... You wont want to do it till 5.6 feels like a walk in the park to you cause you will find yourself pulling 5.6 moves well above your gear... Climb well and keep a cool head and you will have a great time...
The original line starts at the same spot as Still in Saigon (5.8) and heads up then right on a ledge until you get to the dike that you will follow for most of the climb...
You can also start right below the dike climbing up to the right of a bush on a ledge (where you can get a small cam in)... Then make a few tricky moves to get to the dike...The direct start is slightly harder but better protected...
Which ever start you use you will end up following the dike up and slightly left as you enjoy classic Thin Air Face climbing... Lots of good edges and fun mantels all very "on your feet"...
At about halfway there is a horizontal break (optional belay) that takes big cams that give you that special "i wont hit the ground" feeling... Continue up following the path of least resistance to protection behind a flake then motor up to the same 2 bolt/ring anchor as Still in Saigon, which you will find on a ledge up and to your left...
Most partys will rap from here or finish up Miss Saigon (5.8+) above...
Have fun and be safe... Just between you and me i found it to feel more like an "R" route, but the book calls it "X" so i posted it as such to be safe...
ProtectionBring a regular rack though you wont need much... It would just suck to be without the piece you need when you are already 40 feet from your last piece...
I used TCUs, a #1 cam, and a nut...
A 60 meter rope doesn't quite make it to the ground so you should have two... Unless you don't mind down climbing the last 20 feet to the ground...