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Routes in Thin Air Face

Adventures in 3D T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
DMZ T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Diagonal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Freedom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lancelot Link/ Secret Chimp T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Missing Link T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Mans Land T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Pro Choice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rapid Transit T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Repulsion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Saigons, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thin Air T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thinner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Toe Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turner's Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Windfall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Worm Drive S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: John Turner
Page Views: 8,577 total, 64/month
Shared By: m-earle on Nov 1, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This is the obvious left arching flake just to the left of standard route on the Thin Air Face. Start on a ramp that leads right until it meets the flake. continue up the flake to a two bolt belay at a ledge, just below the belay for the traverse pitch on Thin Air. Either top out via Thin Air, or rappel with double ropes or a 70 meter.

Protection

Standard rack of cams and nuts, #4 Camalot is very helpful.
BigRed11    
Went up with nothing larger than a 3 hoping to find "good placements deep in the crack" - forget it, you're looking at long runouts and very bad falls in the bottom half of the route, though the climbing is not too difficult. Bring at least one 4! Oct 1, 2017
ndchu
 
ndchu  
 
Fabulous and fun route. Take care not to get your rope stuck behind the flake (like I did). With good extension you can flip the rope on top of the flake and cruise on! Aug 1, 2016
One of my favorite routes ever. This is what rock climbing is all about for me - Very physical, interesting, gymnastic, demanding, yet not unfair. And so architecturally pleasing. Oct 3, 2015
Jason Scott Heacock
Milford, NH
 
Jason Scott Heacock   Milford, NH
 
I finally got around to climbing this route today, it has classic written on it from beginning to end! I didnt place anything larger than one #2 C4 (mostly because I didnt expect to climb this today).

I could see a need for larger but if you reach in deep and find the money placement you can get away with not taking all the extra weight of a #3 or #4 C4. Jun 15, 2015
Gabe13 Flanders
Eaton Center, New Hampshire
 
Gabe13 Flanders   Eaton Center, New Hampshire
 
Most climbers will be happy to have doubles of 2-4" cams. Aug 28, 2014
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Awesome route~! linking this with Thin Air and Pine Tree Eliminate made for one of the most fun climbs I've done in a long time. While I wouldn't call this route run-out, it had some spicy moments for sure. I climbed with double ropes and walked some large cams (up to a #4) and rope drag wasn't too bad.

The east's answer to Rye Crisp at city of rocks in ID Oct 20, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Did this route again today... Man i forgot how fun it was!!! so cool... i did get a little rope drag on it so i was thinking that next time i might climb the first 2 bolts on Freedom then link in to Turners for a "no rope drag" variation... Mar 31, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
If you place your gear deep behind the flake, no big cams are needed... .
The crux comes when you exit the flake to the right and do a little face climbing before heading back left to finish the route.... Feb 15, 2007
TCUs or small wires useful for final thin corner, which is excellent climbing. Nov 10, 2006