Type: Trad, 295 ft (89 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
GPS: 44.06342, -71.16578
FA: Ray D'arcy/Frank Coffin, July 1955.
Page Views: 784 total · 13/month
Shared By: Ryan DeLena on Aug 9, 2021
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


2 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Despite how the names may suggest, this was actually the original line on the face. In fact, John Turner and Craig Merrihue set out to repeat the D'arcy Traverse, when they started a little lower than the true start. Their off route adventure became the most classic moderate outing on the cliff, Thin Air. Having climbed the route, this makes sense for the times as it follows the weakness up the cliff. While it may not hold the same significance as Thin Air or Still In Saigon these days, The D'arcy Traverse offers an adventurous and reasonably protected adventure to beat the crowds running train on the classics. 

Pitch 1:

Start below a ledge, just uphill of Thin Air, roughly equidistant from the start of Saigons and Thin Air. Climb slightly dirty, but easy rock up and right to a ledge. Stay left of the big vegetated ledge with the fixed cords beneath it, making some fun 5.5-5.6 mantels. Follow the path of least resistance to the belay ledge of Rapid Transit P1, using fixed pins and horizontals for cams to protect. Belay from bolts. 5.6

Pitch 2: 

Make a few airy steps off the belay, underclinging with great feet and protecting low. Pass the bolted belay at the base of Onion Head, make a move around a corner and traverse a large, sloping ledge to join pitch 3 of Thin Air. This traverse is clean and easy, but make sure you protect for your follower if they are nervous. Belay from gear in a crack at a small stance, midway up pitch 3 of Thin Air. 5.4

Pitch 3:

Finish up pitch 3 and 4 of Thin Air, you can link these in one long pitch if you fancy. Check out Pine Tree Eliminate while you’re in the area.

Location Suggest change

Same start as D'arcy Route, 20 feet below the big horizontal ledge equidistant from Thin Air and Saigons.

Protection Suggest change

Single rack to #3.

Photos

0 Comments