| Type: | Trad, 295 ft (89 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 44.06342, -71.16578 |
| FA: | Ray D'arcy/Frank Coffin, July 1955. |
| Page Views: | 784 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan DeLena on Aug 9, 2021 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
Despite how the names may suggest, this was actually the original line on the face. In fact, John Turner and Craig Merrihue set out to repeat the D'arcy Traverse, when they started a little lower than the true start. Their off route adventure became the most classic moderate outing on the cliff, Thin Air. Having climbed the route, this makes sense for the times as it follows the weakness up the cliff. While it may not hold the same significance as Thin Air or Still In Saigon these days, The D'arcy Traverse offers an adventurous and reasonably protected adventure to beat the crowds running train on the classics.
Pitch 1:
Start below a ledge, just uphill of Thin Air, roughly equidistant from the start of Saigons and Thin Air. Climb slightly dirty, but easy rock up and right to a ledge. Stay left of the big vegetated ledge with the fixed cords beneath it, making some fun 5.5-5.6 mantels. Follow the path of least resistance to the belay ledge of Rapid Transit P1, using fixed pins and horizontals for cams to protect. Belay from bolts. 5.6
Pitch 2:
Make a few airy steps off the belay, underclinging with great feet and protecting low. Pass the bolted belay at the base of Onion Head, make a move around a corner and traverse a large, sloping ledge to join pitch 3 of Thin Air. This traverse is clean and easy, but make sure you protect for your follower if they are nervous. Belay from gear in a crack at a small stance, midway up pitch 3 of Thin Air. 5.4
Pitch 3:
Finish up pitch 3 and 4 of Thin Air, you can link these in one long pitch if you fancy. Check out Pine Tree Eliminate while you’re in the area.



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