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Routes in The North End

Bail Safe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bail Safe T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Be Sharp Or B Flat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Big Plum (the Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Bird's Nest T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Childs Play T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Exiles in Babylon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fail Safe T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Generation X T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Jack The Ripper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Kiddy Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knights in White Satin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Liger, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mantleshelf Problem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Merrill's Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Possessed, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Post Mortem T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Raising The Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Recluse T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Recluse Traverse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roof aka The Corner, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
They Died Laughing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thresher T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: D Cilly, S Durgin, fall 1969 FFA Henry Barber, Sept 28th 1972
Page Views: 6,661 total · 47/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 27, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

I have climbed this route tons of times, and it never gets old, one good lock after the next up the steep section and a very interesting move as you pull the mantel after the steep stuff.... If you want to practice finger crack climbing at this grade, this is a great climb....
Also, good for practicing clean aid climbing....

Start at two finger cracks making an "A" shape in the middle of the cliff.... Climb up to a detached (yet secure) block move right to another "A" shaped feature of finger cracks....
Climb these to the tricky mantel, and pull a few more challenging moves to the place where the anchors used to be (the were recently demolished).... There is an oak tree back and right to anchor to....

Location

Start at two finger cracks making an "A" shape in the middle of the cliff....

Protection

Standard rack.... Nuts work well....

Photos

Tradiban
  5.9
Tradiban  
  5.9
Not quite as nice as "Die Laughing" but equal in grade and style. No bolted anchor as the falcon guide lists but a nice big tree to the right with rap slings. May 25, 2010
Interesting OS, got to the top sweating like a pig. Get on it when totally dry, feels insecure when damp. Interesting finish. Aug 28, 2011
Rob C.
Freeport, ME
  5.9
Rob C.   Freeport, ME
  5.9
Good finger jams, good hand jams at the top, good rest in the middle, all with fun movement - great little climb! Oct 11, 2011
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.9+
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.9+
Followed this after just leading They Died Laughing and found it to be quite a bit harder. Maybe I was just tired from climbing all day. Jul 13, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Very well protected and fun. The crux was NOT where I thought it would be (reading the climb from the ground). Worth doing. Jun 23, 2015
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
This is a FUN climb.... Perhaps a little easier than Laughing on the whole, although per the crux (arguably the top mantel), it's a little harder. It's a really tough, physical top over move! The bottom of this climb is sweet. There is a bottom crux right at the second piece, where you have pretty much no feet. Even the middle getting to the ledge is tricky. Great great climb!! Sep 16, 2015
Sean M
  5.9
Sean M  
  5.9
I enjoyed this one more than "they died laughing", but might have just been because it's easier, or at least less strenuous. Bomber jams the whole way, great gear. Do it. Oct 7, 2017
David
 
David  
 
To make a TR anchor there are 2 pitons and a tree directly back from the top out. Sep 10, 2018

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