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Routes in Lower Left Wall / Ventilator Slabs

Age Before Beauty T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bombardment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Effects of Kind Bud on an Abnormal Brain, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ego Trip S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fisting Jon (AKA Leafspring) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fun House T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fun House Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Trails T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King Crab (Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0
Once Upon A Climb T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
One Hit To The Body T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Pleasant St. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pooh T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son Of A Birch T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Starfire (Yo-Yo) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Three Birches T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ventilated Western Girl T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Ventilator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Western Lady/ California Girls T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Cilley, rope-solo on October 6, 1972
Page Views: 11,628 total, 87/month
Shared By: jeremyadams on Jan 1, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Bombardment shares p1 with Pleasant Street, a quick test of wits on a wandering, run-out 5.6 slab that terminates at a large ant-eaten oak on a slanting ledge below an overlap. Start p2 by stepping up and right over the overlap. The p2 crack climbing is an easily protected and fun place to learn jams and ween yourself off of the plentiful face features for footholds.

Location

Starts at the far left end of the lower left slabs, at a short headwall. From atop the first ledge, step right, protect, and follow the white dike to the right side of the ramp. From the top of the route, move north (right) about 40 feet to rap anchors, continue to top on any number of routes, or walk left along base of cliff until you can round the corner into the woods and to the top (about 10 minutes to walk off).

Protection

P1 is considered 5.6 R/X, but can be protected reasonably* with double ropes. P2 protects very well with nuts and small-to-medium cams.

( * Ed. comment: reasonably for the follower; if there's a way to protect the moves up the dike for the leader, please describe! R. Hall Adm.)
DJ DiDonna
cambridge, ma
DJ DiDonna   cambridge, ma
A 70 meter rope will JUST reach the ground for rappelling down the two faces from the top of Bombardment. Two cordelettes secure a small ring, (plus my now-surrendered locker,) offering an alternative to the hairy right scramble – especially when covered with leaves – to the rap station. You’ll have to rap down climbers left a bit, but you’ll reach solid ground with just one rope. Nov 20, 2016
Randy Peterson  
  5.8
Make sure you go out far enough right on the first pitch of this route. I didn't get out far enough to hit the quartz streak and it was definitely harder than 5.6 and would have been a ground fall for sure.

Bombardment was AWESOME. Went up rapped down and did Pleasant street (also fun), topped out on the bolted 5.9 (very dirty but it's bolted so whatever). then shot over to do Upper Refuse.

I would highly recommend this climb. May 23, 2016
ChrisN
Morro Bay, CA
 
ChrisN   Morro Bay, CA
 
This is a really solid climb. Perhaps a good choice to break into the grade, protection wherever you want it, nothing too strenous.

In my opinion, there's no reason not to do the Age Before Beauty P1 start to this climb. Super safe sport bolted slab. Trust your feet! Oct 23, 2015
Love me some Bombardment!!! Just gorgeous and interesting climbing. Wow.

Agree the entry pitch getting to the tree is testy. I chose the bolted slab line (5.9) and aided twice: grabbed the little tree at the beginning, and my own quick draw at the crux, just to get the damn thing over with and get to Bombardment.

That 5.6 deal out to the right looks pretty horrifying if you fell. Sep 4, 2015
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
 
This is just a wonderful pitch. Great rock, great gear, great jams, a nice little face-move crux---wish it went on forever. Apr 28, 2014
Went back to try Age Before Beauty and couldn't quite get myself to trust my feet, but was able to cheat through it hauling on draws without too much trouble, so it is cheat-able. Worth it still, love that second pitch. Sep 4, 2012
JChepes
West Ossipee, NH
JChepes   West Ossipee, NH
The Hurley line, Age before Beauty, goes at 5.9(Handren's new guide) and is a quite a pleasant(safer) start to approaching bombardment. Jul 6, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
right on... glad you were in the right place... pretty sure its a mental thing but thats just as real as any kind of difficulty... i dont use my generous height to get to the finish ;) Aug 22, 2011
Thanks for the info Lee, that might be a better option for me to cheat through ;). I was on the dike, it was just the top that felt a tad thinner (could have been mental feeling like there was potential groundfall). I'm also 5'6", so maybe some get the jug to exit the slab a step earlier. Aug 22, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
the run out moves shouldnt be too bad if you move right far enough... the dike you follow has decent feet though ill give it to you that its a bit of a head game... many people dont go far enough right and end up on pure slab at a harder grade (yikes)...

as for the bolted line its like 10a slab, not too bad and you could probably cheat through it to get to the money pitch if you wanted... Aug 21, 2011
P1 was kind of sketchy (even w/doubles I think you are looking at potential groundfall?) and likely wouldn't do it again. Last few steps before exiting the runout slab seemed pretty thin. P2 was super fun, I only wish I had saved a .75 or 1 camalot for the top of the crack, ended up down climbing ~15ft to get the .75 so I'd have something good for what seemed like the crux to me. Also curious about the rating of the bolted route because I loved P2 but don't think I'd do P1 again. Aug 21, 2011
patrick donahue
Bend, OR
 
patrick donahue   Bend, OR
 
ya ive done this climb in one pitch and as you know it went a lot faster but still a great climb. Apr 23, 2010
Thanks...

It is a little Random and from what I've heard from another climbing friend of mine it's meant to be a more fitting start to Ventilator... I made the first bolt and the first moves up to the second bolt with ease after that I had to aid the route up to the crack below the oak tree...

Something I'll try again on a cooler day then the day I tried it... Sep 1, 2009
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  5.8
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  5.8
It's a newer George Hurley line, I don't know anybody who's done it yet. It seems kinda random, but hey, the man knows his routes. Aug 31, 2009
Does anyone know the grade and name of the three bolt slab climb that can be find going up to the 2nd pitch of Bombardment & Pleasant St?
I know to the right is the normal 5.6 start to each of those climbs just wondering what the other is... Aug 31, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
thanks for sharing the story... there are so many stories like that out there and so few climbers die from it... Maybe that says something about survival instincts... im glad you lived... Feb 12, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.8+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.8+
Adam i know the feeling i scared myself on a 5.3 the one and only solo i will ever do... Feb 12, 2009
AWinters
NH
 
AWinters   NH  
 
Almost bought the farm free-soloing this thing years ago with a buddy. Feb 12, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.8+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.8+
How ever you do this route, it is awesome, I climbed it with Jim Shim and it was my first Conway experience, what a great first route in Conway... Dec 28, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i would recomend conserving gear rather than bringing extras, like i know there is a good .75 cam spot and some good large nuts... but do as you wish and have fun... Dec 2, 2008
Zigs
 
Zigs  
 
Due to my own stupidity I ended up having to leap frog my last two cam placements for the last 30 or so feet of the crack on pitch two. This is my way of suggesting that people bring two number 1, and 2 Camalots. Bolder climbers than me will probably say that it's not necessary but I like my gear. The jams are great though so reusing pieces or running it out are both valid options. Dec 1, 2008
m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
This climb can be done in one pitch quite easily with a 60m. Feb 21, 2007