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Routes in The Diedre Area

Budapest T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cooney - Russell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Diedre T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Temptation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Lousianna Bubble Bath T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Underground T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wez, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 5 pitches
FA: J.Cote D. Arey FFA J. Cote B. Read
Page Views: 16,358 total, 125/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 29, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This route is traditional given a 5.9+ rating, but it could just as easily be a modern 5.10. My vote is not to split hairs because they both mean the same thing at Cathedral.

Diedre is possibly the best climb of the grade on the cliff as it offers well-protected, full-length, and full value, mostly crack climbing. Climb it, enough said...

Pitch 1: (5.7) Up the "Triple Corners." Off width cracks up a series of ledges to a comfortable belay ledge.

Pitch 2: (5.9+ or 5.10a depending on who ya ask) Climb up the main corner until it is possible to move right under the roof(use your feet) past an old pin. Clip it. Then mantel on to a ledge to the right of the roof. That was the crux. Belay at a couple of pins and gear on the ledge.

Pitch 3: (5.8) Climb the picture perfect corner crack. Jam and stem (strenuous work for a 5.8 pitch) past a birch tree growing out of the crack. Belay from the top on small gear.

Pitch 4: (5.4) Make easy moves right along the wide, hand crack to the blueberry ledge, a cool ledge that could sleep a party of 20.

Pitch 5: (5.9) It won't take you long to find the absolutely perfect, hand crack heading up from the ledge. Follow the crack to a tricky exit move and lower angle climbing up to one more bulge (another 5.9 move) jam up to one last mantel. Belay from a tree and take in the scenery.

Location

Look for the birch tree corner above then locate the triple corner steps below.

Protection

Standard rack to #3.5 Camalot.
Cres Simpson
Cambridge, MA
  5.9+
Cres Simpson   Cambridge, MA
  5.9+
Climbed today after some rain early in the weekend - P1/P3 ended up being very wet. P3 was soaked and honestly seemed harder than the "crux" P2 - it's a 2-3 move wonder albeit pumpy when you're hanging out trying to figure out the sequence. P5 was beautiful and as others have said climbed much easier than it looked. The hardest move on P5 is the final bulge (not the overhang visible from the belay) - practice those handjams! Sep 10, 2017
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Scramble up and belay from the nice ledge for a cleaner belay.

Doubles of #1-#3 were definitely nice, particularly for Pitch 5. There are definitely spots for the #4, but nothing critical other than protecting the first 20 feet of the route. You could have your second climb up the ramp and reach up and clean the #4 and throw it in a backpack at the base of the climb so you don't have to carry it up.

It looked like you could rap this route with 3 single-rope raps on a full 60M. One from the pitch 5 tree anchor back to the giant ledge. Another from the tree on the right edge of the ledge. And a final rap from a pin anchor with rap rings that will be on your right. I wasn't able to look at the pin anchor for integrity though. Aug 17, 2017
Sean M
 
Sean M  
 
Good climb. Pitches 3 and 5 are the money pitches. P2 is definitely the crux, but it's like a 2/3 move sequence and protects well, just make sure to protect the follower. Just make sure you get to lead the 5th pitch. Aug 10, 2017
ndchu
  5.10a
ndchu  
  5.10a
Easily linked P1+P2, P3+P4. Makes for a great 3 pitch climb where each pitch has plenty of value! Jul 10, 2017
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Man, you must have been having a bad day! The crux was 5.9 forever, then 9+

I can't see V1 unless most of the holds broke off Sep 5, 2016
Will Stat
  5.10b
Will Stat  
  5.10b
I led a handful of 5.10 pitches in North Conway this weekend and P2 felt harder than the .10a pitches and on par with the .10bs. If it were on a boulder below it would probably get V1. I personally would not clip the pin, its only a matter of time until that thing goes. Its a remnant from the aid climb days and its in the worst orientation for a piton, plus you can get a bomber .75 camalot 2 feet to the left. The "5.8" P3 felt harder than the 5.9 final pitch, which was surprisingly easy with bomber jambs through the steep section and great feet everywhere - one of the most fun hand cracks I've ever done I think and a great way to end the day. Sep 5, 2016
Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Zak Munro   VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Definitely place something to keep the rope out of the crack on the last pitch, I got right to the final mantle and couldn't pull the rope up! Had to down climb and placed a blue alien out left and it worked great. Also wouldn't be a bad idea to place a piece high after the crux on pitch 2 so your second doesn't take a big swing if they blow the mantle after unclipping the piton. Aug 31, 2015
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
What a fun climb. I agree that the last pitch climbed much easier than it looked, although it has a little surprise waiting for you at the top out. I thought the crux pitch was strange and difficult, but, you can practically do it on TR if you place a piece right before you traverse. The birch pitch is fun too; it's steep and requires technique if you don't want to pump out. Good stemming will get you all the way to the tree. Jun 23, 2015
M Bageant
Cambridge, MA
M Bageant   Cambridge, MA
Really excellent route, with three of the pitches (P2, P3, and P5) being just wonderful. And even the muddy, wet, offwidth-y start had a certain kind of charm.

I linked P2 and P3, but I can't recommend it (unavoidable rope drag). Linking P1 and P2 is possible. If you placed a directional at the top of P3 (e.g. small nut high off the ledge), you could also potentially link P3 and P4.

If your follower falls on the crux traverse after cleaning the pin, he may get stuck in no-man's-land on the right wall, so have a plan on how to deal with that possibility.

My buddy fell on the pin yesterday 5/10/15 and it held. As rusty as it is, it's nice to be able to essentially top rope the crux! May 11, 2015
Greg DeMatteo
W. Lebanon, NH
 
Greg DeMatteo   W. Lebanon, NH
 
The giant face eating spider, presumably named Diedre, that liked to dangle from the lip of the roof on pitch 2 daring climbers to pass beneath her has been vanquished by a quickdraw, since christened "Sting," and was last seen scurrying to safety amongst the verdant ledges of pitch 1. Though the mosquito count may be higher, long may this route be free from such arachnids of terror. Aug 18, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Peter- That might be my favorite comment on mountain project ever :) Dec 22, 2013
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
9+.. perfect. now try Budapest next door...Jimmie Dunn 5.10 "triple plus" Dec 17, 2013
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
Glad to see the route was downgraded from 9+ to .10a. I never thought it was that hard anyway. (If this doesn't make any sense to you, welcome to North Conway---and if you think this is confusing, go to the Daks...LOL) Dec 16, 2013
Steve Moulding
New York
  5.9
Steve Moulding   New York
  5.9
Very short crux...nothing special...I thought it was 5.9. The last pitch, however is phenomenal and not as hard as it looked from the belay. Jun 7, 2012
dale polen
arivaca, az
dale polen   arivaca, az
5.9 Dec 15, 2011
Andrew Mertens
Berkeley, CA
  5.9+
Andrew Mertens   Berkeley, CA
  5.9+
I'm calling this a 5.9+ cause I thought it was harder than 10a. Nov 1, 2010
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
 
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
 
This can be a very wet route. Leaders should be careful to protect the second on the roof crux as placing gear too far left or high has serious swing potential for the follower. Jul 17, 2010
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Ya- classic NH it's 5.9 except for the crux move. Apr 7, 2010
Bryan Gilmore
New England
 
Bryan Gilmore   New England
 
Wasn't Diedre always a 5.9? Funny how the longer you wait, the better the climber you become! Mar 15, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Nice tip with the sling directional... i always placed a nut above the overhang in a crack to the left for the same purpose but either way will keep your rope out of a crack that has claimed a few.... Feb 5, 2009
Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
My first climb at Catherdal. The first pitch is a mossy affair, not to tough. The second pitch, starts off up cracks on the left side of the overhand. Strenuous moves under the roof lead to a stem and good jug to belay ledge (5.9+/10a) There is an old piton under the roof that you don't want to clip but probably will. P3 takes you up a strenuous hand crack past a birch tree (growing right out of crack)up to a nice belay (5.8). P4 is easy 5th class to belay right below the final overhanging crack. This goes easier than it looks at 5.9. A good bit of beta here is the sling off to right to use as a directional to keep the rope out of a vary devious narrowing crack. Great potential for a stuck rope. continue on to the final overhang (5.9) and the top. Walk off North. May 14, 2007
Ladd

  5.10a
Ladd    
  5.10a
A must do for the 5.10- Trad climber.
This is my favorite 5.10 by far at Cathedral May 11, 2007