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Routes in The Diedre Area

Budapest T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cooney - Russell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Diedre T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Temptation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Lousianna Bubble Bath T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Underground T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wez, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Ed Webster and Jimmie Dunn
Page Views: 3,263 total, 30/month
Shared By: john strand on Nov 5, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

BRILLIANT !!! I think one of the top 5 pitches on the cliff. The crux is the last 15'. Originally 10+

Start up 5.9-ish hands in a bit of a groove, this rapidly goes to thin hands and fingers. Get good rests with some small footholds (I also also remember one really good rest) and remember Ed & Jimmie 28 years ago in EBs. The crux is hard to hang in and protect but takes good gear -- small wires and RPs. Take a couple of whips and then set up a belay on a small stance. Lower down a little to see your second struggle.

There used to be a good viewing spot right on the road to watch people whipping on this, but it has probably grown over now.

Location

Do the first 2-3 pitches depending on linking then blast straight up the obvious crack

Protection

Good all the way thinning to small wires at the end.

Photos

shoo  
AMAZING route.

Rappel beta:
For those seeking to skip the first 3 pitches of Dierdre (which are often soaked), there is another way. You can rappel roughly 55m into the Budapest anchor (same as the anchor at the end of guidebook pitch 3 for Deirdre) via a tree at the top of the cliff. You will need a second dedicated rope for this purpose (which could alternatively be used as doubles if you don't fix it).

I previously marked the tree with a bit of tat on a branch, but the tat is gone now. Unfortunately, it's hard to find unless you at least know where on the cliff Deirdre tops out, but here's the best description I can give.

To find the tree, start from the mini cliff-side path where Dierdre tops out. This mini path joins the main climber's blue blazed path on both climber's left and the right of the Deirdre top out. If topping out of Deirdre, go 25m climber's left of where you top out. If not, start from where the mini-path turns sharply at the climber's left end of the cliff side portion of the mini trail, and go 7m climber's right. There is a small erosion gully beside a large tree at the very edge, below which is a dirty / mossy / pine needle covered slab. On climber's left of that slab is a dihedral with domed granite. You can use that very large tree on the edge, or, better yet, use the big tree slightly more on the path so you can rap over the erosion gully instead of having to downclimb. If using a dedicated rope to rap with (handy for another purpose later), fix one end of the rope to the tree, and rap away.

BE VERY CAREFUL HERE! There is a fair amount of debris (mostly branches) which could be knocked off onto climbers below. Best to take your rope with you rather than trying to throw it.

Budapest starts roughly 10-15m to climber's left of where this line naturally falls. You can get to the belay either by walking leftward down the wide crack / ramp when you get to the normal Deirdre ramp while rappelling (that you would normally use to go to the last pitch of Deirdre) OR by setting an intermediate redirectional anchor well to the left before you go over the edge after the slab. There are a couple of twiggy "trees" to use. The one closest to the large crack up and climber's left (where you top out later) is probably the best one for a redirect. You will be barely able to see the last, pinkish crack / hold on Budapest to climber's left at the edge of the slab, so aim to put your rope over that if you see it. Bonus: you can use one of those trees in conjunction with the rap rope you fixed as an anchor for when you top out. That's helpful if you want to rap back in later, as you don't top out the way you came in, and topping out is a pain in the ass. If you've done this correctly, you the rap line is directly over the unmistakably intimidating line of the route, and onto the belay ledge after p3 of Deirdre / the start of Budapest. Get psyched! Or scared. Or both.

Topout beta: After taking the whip a few times, bask in the glory of the hold that marks the end of troubles, and haul yourself onto the slab. Go up some mostly unprotected dirty 5.4 slab, aiming up and climber's left towards a fist-sized crack which leads to a large ledge with a big tree on it (and usually a rap station, though I don't know where that gets you). Consider piecing together an anchor before reaching this ledge shortly after lip of the route so you can more easily communicate with your second. Either way, the current topout is the diagonal "path" up and climber's left, following the "trail" until it gets to a point where you can easily scramble up to the top. You probably want to stay roped up for this bit. Some pretty minor bushwhacking gets you back to the trail.

Note: If someone puts in some effort to clean it, the slab to the right would be a much more pleasing and direct topout. But in its current shape, it's a death slab lubricated with leaves, pine needles, lichen, and tears.

Rack: BD size #0.3-#3, doubles .75 to 2 are very handy. Anchor at bottom takes medium offset nuts and/or small cams (0.2-0.3ish). Pro is GREAT all the way. PM for beta (gear or otherwise) if you want it. Nov 8, 2015
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
Every....move....gets....harder....until....the...............veryend!!!! Phew! Did it back in the mid 80's. Hung. Got up it anyway. Spoiler...... as I remember the last jam is left hand, pinkie down. Sep 17, 2015
Lucas
Asheville, NC
 
Lucas   Asheville, NC
 
Is there anyone who's put up more time tested classics in this country than Jimmie Dunn? Guy sure knew how to pick 'em....this thing is a gem. May 17, 2015
Fabulous route with a crux at the last move. One of the best at Cathedral. Oct 15, 2014
Rich Brereton
Pownal, ME
 
Rich Brereton   Pownal, ME
 
Funny 'cuz it's true. Now I understand... Aug 4, 2013
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
too pumped.. even belaying May 20, 2013
Rich Brereton
Pownal, ME
 
Rich Brereton   Pownal, ME
 
Doesn't anybody have any photos of this thing? Will have to remedy this situation. May 20, 2013
CCliffe
 
CCliffe  
 
i agree with the description. definitely top 5 pitches. you can rap back down to the staring ledge (top diedre's 3rd pitch) with a 60m. this route is a gem Jun 16, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Mark Synott sprayed me down on it a little but the most useful thing he said was that you should save a purple camalot for just before the crux then punch it to the top... I haven't done it yet but i was pissed i didn't get to it this season... Nov 6, 2008