Cooney - Russell
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Routes in The Diedre Area
|Budapest T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Cooney - Russell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Diedre T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Last Temptation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Lousianna Bubble Bath T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Underground T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Wez, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||1,061 total, 14/month|
|Shared By:||bayard russell jr on Jul 5, 2011|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionA link up of pitches we jokingly referred to as the Cooney-Russell, mostly because of its insignificance, but the name stuck. Regardless, the climbing is fun and consistantly 5.9. We did this back in '05 or so.
p.1 Start as for Diedre, but step right off the top of the triple corners to a finger and hand crack (Kinesis). When you start getting hand jambs step right around the blind arete to a stance. Locate a single bolt out right at a stance and continue traversing right past it until you gain the top of the first pitch of Delieghtmaker (shared with the Underground). Follow the weakness up a three foot handcrack and build an anchor at a good ledge below two corners. (Note: from the bolt it is tempting to climb straight up to the belay ledge staying in a corner, this is harder than 5.9, not well protected and not recommended.) 5.9+
p.2 Climb the left of the two corners; a gorgeous little, leaning 5.9 finger crack up to a short off width leading into the gully known as Karen's variation. Follow Karen's Variation to the Blueberry Terrace (the big ledge below Diedre's last pitch).
p.3 Climb the last pitch of Diedre to the woods.
LocationClimb the Triple Corners on Diedre to a large ledge below the roof traverse.
The Diedre area is so close to the North End the easiest way down is to hike right, 5 mins.
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