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Routes in Lower Left Wall / Ventilator Slabs

Age Before Beauty T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bombardment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Effects of Kind Bud on an Abnormal Brain, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ego Trip S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fisting Jon (AKA Leafspring) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fun House T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fun House Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Trails T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King Crab (Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0
Once Upon A Climb T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
One Hit To The Body T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Pleasant St. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pooh T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son Of A Birch T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Starfire (Yo-Yo) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Three Birches T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ventilated Western Girl T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Ventilator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Western Lady/ California Girls T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Unsorted Routes:
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Description

The Lower Left Wall has everything from easy starter climbs (Fun House 5.7) to some hard scary slab climbing (Repo Man 5.11dX) and many choices in between. Routes in this section can get crowded on a weekend with multiple parties on Bombardment (5.8), Fun House (5.7), and beginner parties suckered in to the stout but fun (if 5.8 is not your limit) Three Birches (5.8+). However the better I get to know this cliff the more I learn to get around the crowds and I always find a way to the midway ledge without waiting in line or crossing too many ropes.

Though many of the routes have cracks on them you will find most of the climbing depends on your feet and requires some slab technique. On the routes that don’t have cracks expect extreme slab climbing for the most part, Ego Trip (5.11c) among others offer you good protection while pushing the limits of your slab prowess.

Getting There

There is a trail marked at the road near where the porter potties normally reside. Follow this as it twists through the woods and eventually heads up hill past boulders. You will have Fun House right in front of you as you get to the cliff. Head left for bombardment and the hard slabs. Head right for the Lower Refuse area.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Left Wall / Ventilator Slabs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 286
Fun House
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 225
Bombardment
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 25
Fun House Left
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Happy Trails
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 81
Three Birches
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 37
Pooh
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 57
Age Before Beauty
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 29
Ventilator
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Starfire (Yo-Yo)
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
 10
Western Lady/ California Girls
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 14
Ego Trip
Sport 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Once Upon A Climb
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 5
Fisting Jon (AKA Leafspring)
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Fun House
 286
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Bombardment
 225
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Fun House Left
 25
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Happy Trails
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Three Birches
 81
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Pooh
 37
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Age Before Beauty
 57
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Ventilator
 29
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Starfire (Yo-Yo)
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Western Lady/ California Girls
 10
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R Trad
Ego Trip
 14
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 2 pitches
Once Upon A Climb
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Fisting Jon (AKA Leafspring)
 5
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Lower Left Wall / Ventilator Slabs »

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Photos

Ladd    
The SCA is curently fixing up the approach trail to the base. 5.30.07.
The cliff is still accessible and the work they are doing is great! May 30, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
In an attempt to avoid the wet spots I lead my dad up an interesting link up starting on Western Lady going in to the crack on Bombardment and avoiding the wet crux on that, continued left in to Happy Trails... Fun climbing at about 5.9...

The Western-Bombardment link is very fun, the finish on happy trails was not really worth going out of your way for... Sep 30, 2008
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
I'm surprised that no one has posted Repo Man and that the only mention of it has an X safety rating. This was my first 5.12 lead. I accept it being down-rated to 11d, although unless the bolt that protects the crux is gone, this is not an X route. I got the nerve to lead it only after watching Jimmy Surette pitch off of the crux, several times, and coming close to although not close enough to hit the ground. Feb 10, 2013

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