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Routes in Lower Left Wall / Ventilator Slabs

Age Before Beauty T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bombardment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Effects of Kind Bud on an Abnormal Brain, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ego Trip S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fisting Jon (AKA Leafspring) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fun House T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fun House Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Trails T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King Crab (Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0
Once Upon A Climb T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
One Hit To The Body T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Pleasant St. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pooh T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son Of A Birch T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Starfire (Yo-Yo) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Three Birches T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ventilated Western Girl T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Ventilator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Western Lady/ California Girls T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Unknown, possibly Loran Smith and Joshua Corbett 11/3/12
Page Views: 1,385 total, 22/month
Shared By: EDGE on Nov 3, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

A botanists dream, for everyone else, not so much?

Just left of Pleasant Street is a triangular, vertical wall. Walk around the corner at it's left end, and at the lowest point start up an obvious bear-hug flake to a second similar flake. Move slightly right, keeping a 3" dia tree on your left, then saunter up the numerous slabs mixed with ledges above keeping as close as possible to the arete on the right.

Location

Just left of the start of Pleasant Street is a triangular, blocky, vertical wall. This route starts at the left end of this wall, just around the corner and below the lowest toe of rock on a bear-hug flake.

Protection

Tie off some trees, fiddle in a couple small cams or stoppers, or whatever the voices tell you to place. Beech tree anchor at top.
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
Yeah, it is one of John's old routes, and when he first found it (taking a leak in the forest before doing Bombardment, no doubt) it was sparkling clean. The rumor is that he planted all the lichen on it first and then soloed it in a light freezing rain. North Conway is such an odd place..... Apr 28, 2014
EDGE
Between Nederland and Boulder,
 
EDGE   Between Nederland and Boulder,
 
Someone told me it was one of your unfinished projects, John. Nov 4, 2012
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
EDGE- I think you are losing your mind. Nov 4, 2012
EDGE
Between Nederland and Boulder,
 
EDGE   Between Nederland and Boulder,
 
The inspiration for this climb is partially described by it's name, after a chance encounter with a hero-of-the-day on the Cathedral auto road. Similarly adequate mental preparation greatly enhances the experience.

The climb may very well have been done before, but as you can see from the pics was rather "hairy." It was cleaned on the lead with a frayed branch, hitting only the key holds and smears. By the top, the 10" long stick was reduced to a 4" pointy one. It was similarly and more thoroughly cleaned via rappel during the descent. Nov 3, 2012