Type: Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: S. Streibert, J. Reppy, H. May Sept 1963
Page Views: 3,532 total · 25/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 19, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


81 Opinions

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Description

A nice climb, stout in the grade...
Very aesthetic...
Pitch 1: Follow the arch up and right (harder than it looks). Focus on foot work though the feet are slick from wear (this section can be wet too, joy).... After the arch, follow cracks to a clump of trees belay from trees or build an anchor in the cracks....
Pitch 2: Continues up thin cracks to gain a huge layback offwidth flake.... Follow the flake up to a left-facing corner.... Climb the corner and mantel (a little tricky, look for less than obvious pockets).... From here, climb slabs, then exit right to a cluster of trees to belay (same finish as Fun House (5.7).... Easy climbing to the Barber Wall ledge....

Location

In the middle of the lower, left wall, you will see an obvious right-leaning arch.... The first pitch climbs this feature and cracks above....

Protection

Trad gear, a few fixed pins and an old fixed cam.... Belay from trees and gear....

Photos

E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
I actually find the first pitch to be pretty enjoyable when dry with fun smeering/edging and good finger jams. On the second pitch one can lead up to the tree with slings, clip it long and do a slab traverse left into the 5.8/9? crack finish to what I believe it is starfire? The finish is dirty but kind of fun. Apr 4, 2010
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
The key words E- "when dry" ! ya that finish is YoYo/Starfire. Apr 6, 2010
Matt Desenberg
Limerick, ME
Matt Desenberg   Limerick, ME
You can link the first two pitches with a 60m and careful slinging. Definately try the Starfire finish if it is dry. Tons of fun! Dec 25, 2011
hasan Adil
portland,me
hasan Adil   portland,me
The fixed cam's sling is in quite bad shape thats near the start. Apr 22, 2013
Alissa Doherty
Boston, MA
 
Alissa Doherty   Boston, MA
 
I agree that the fixed cam is manky at the start. I fell and it caught me but I noticed afterwards that it was a little too loose to trust. Oct 7, 2013
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
I used to guide this route a lot via a fun little variation that avoids both cruxes---an awesome alternative if Funhouse is all jammed up. About 50 feet right of Three Birches (3Bs), head up the 3rd class approach to Funhouse. About 20 feet below the start of Funhouse, walk left on an obvious little tree ledge until it ends. If you look down and left you will see 3Bs coming right up at you, and you will be level with the top of the arch seen in the photos. There is a tree to belay from. Place a tiny nut under the obvious overlap and then make one loooong (and slightly mossy) step over left to intersect with the 3Bs crack (you'll need that little piece of gear when leading because you're starting about 35 feet off the ground). Continue up to the 1st belay for 3Bs. Done this way, the first pitch is about 5.7. On the second pitch, go up and slightly right into the long layback flake, but before getting to the befuddling (and slightly heady) crux bulge on 3Bs, trend nicely up and right and finish up the beautiful little face on the second pitch of Funhouse, aiming for an obvious red pine at the top. Use long slings to keep the drag down. This pitch is about 5.6. This is a great little combo that no one ever does!!! If you look at the beta photo at the top of the page (labeled "under the arch") the belayer that is just visible at the top right of the photo is exactly at the spot where you will be coming in from the right (and the real P.1 belay for 3Bs is about 40 feet above the belayer in the pic.) Apr 28, 2014
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
I found this climb to be very steep and difficult, especially the bottom. The first few sequences are damn near ridiculous, and not much fun. The aesthetics get better as you go up. I'd like to try what Peter Lewis describes: Enter the climb at the top of the roof/burly section, and go from there. The initial headwall is really kind of a wet slimy death trap, while the rest of it is super high quality.

The top out is a bit bizarre. After the cool offwidth flake, the route becomes run-out, dirty 5.7 to the trees. There's one interesting corner move, then bullshit slabby moves with no pro. Plus, there's no permanent anchor on the trees up there. Sep 17, 2015
BigRed11    
Most of the route is great, but the finish ruins an otherwise fun route. The mantel is very tricky at the grade, with less-than-ideal slab fall potential. Then the 5.6 pure friction to the top is extremely run out, and covered in pine needles and dirt. I would avoid the standard finish if possible. Oct 2, 2017
Max Zielinski
New Paltz, NY
  5.9 PG13
Max Zielinski   New Paltz, NY
  5.9 PG13
Just did this route today: overall a stout route with awkward movements. The rock under the arch at the bottom was “sweaty” and smearing was tenuous, but the most serious part of the route is the standard finish up the runout, licheny slab at the top, which can be avoided on either side. My partner led that pitch, got confused, decided upon the standard slab finish and ended up taking a 60-foot tumbling fall from the top slab. He was about 30 ft runout above a marginal nut and took a big fall to a spot well below the mantel move. Miraculously he walked away with only a badly scraped elbow and no broken bones or other serious injuries. Needless to say, good route finding and a cool head are prerequisites for this climb. Jun 21, 2018
David
  5.8+ PG13
David  
  5.8+ PG13
I found the p1 belay tree to be uninspiring (hollow, exposed roots) and decided to continue to the rap tree halfway up P2.

The P2 crux - slab mantle over a bulge - seemed bizarre for the grade and poorly protected; I escaped right as Peter Lewis described. The flake was cool though - wished I brought the #5. Overall, not sure I would repeat the last pitch. Sep 10, 2018