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Routes in Lower Left Wall / Ventilator Slabs

Age Before Beauty T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bombardment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Effects of Kind Bud on an Abnormal Brain, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ego Trip S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fisting Jon (AKA Leafspring) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fun House T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fun House Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Trails T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King Crab (Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0
Once Upon A Climb T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
One Hit To The Body T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Pleasant St. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pooh T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son Of A Birch T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Starfire (Yo-Yo) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Three Birches T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ventilated Western Girl T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Ventilator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Western Lady/ California Girls T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: S. Streibert, J. Reppy, H. May Sept 1963
Page Views: 3,192 total, 24/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 19, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A nice climb, stout in the grade...
Very aesthetic...
Pitch 1: Follow the arch up and right (harder than it looks). Focus on foot work though the feet are slick from wear (this section can be wet too, joy).... After the arch, follow cracks to a clump of trees belay from trees or build an anchor in the cracks....
Pitch 2: Continues up thin cracks to gain a huge layback offwidth flake.... Follow the flake up to a left-facing corner.... Climb the corner and mantel (a little tricky, look for less than obvious pockets).... From here, climb slabs, then exit right to a cluster of trees to belay (same finish as Fun House (5.7).... Easy climbing to the Barber Wall ledge....

Location

In the middle of the lower, left wall, you will see an obvious right-leaning arch.... The first pitch climbs this feature and cracks above....

Protection

Trad gear, a few fixed pins and an old fixed cam.... Belay from trees and gear....

Photos

BigRed11    
Most of the route is great, but the finish ruins an otherwise fun route. The mantel is very tricky at the grade, with less-than-ideal slab fall potential. Then the 5.6 pure friction to the top is extremely run out, and covered in pine needles and dirt. I would avoid the standard finish if possible. Oct 2, 2017
I found this climb to be very steep and difficult, especially the bottom. The first few sequences are damn near ridiculous, and not much fun. The aesthetics get better as you go up. I'd like to try what Peter Lewis describes: Enter the climb at the top of the roof/burly section, and go from there. The initial headwall is really kind of a wet slimy death trap, while the rest of it is super high quality.

The top out is a bit bizarre. After the cool offwidth flake, the route becomes run-out, dirty 5.7 to the trees. There's one interesting corner move, then bullshit slabby moves with no pro. Plus, there's no permanent anchor on the trees up there. Sep 17, 2015
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
I used to guide this route a lot via a fun little variation that avoids both cruxes---an awesome alternative if Funhouse is all jammed up. About 50 feet right of Three Birches (3Bs), head up the 3rd class approach to Funhouse. About 20 feet below the start of Funhouse, walk left on an obvious little tree ledge until it ends. If you look down and left you will see 3Bs coming right up at you, and you will be level with the top of the arch seen in the photos. There is a tree to belay from. Place a tiny nut under the obvious overlap and then make one loooong (and slightly mossy) step over left to intersect with the 3Bs crack (you'll need that little piece of gear when leading because you're starting about 35 feet off the ground). Continue up to the 1st belay for 3Bs. Done this way, the first pitch is about 5.7. On the second pitch, go up and slightly right into the long layback flake, but before getting to the befuddling (and slightly heady) crux bulge on 3Bs, trend nicely up and right and finish up the beautiful little face on the second pitch of Funhouse, aiming for an obvious red pine at the top. Use long slings to keep the drag down. This pitch is about 5.6. This is a great little combo that no one ever does!!! If you look at the beta photo at the top of the page (labeled "under the arch") the belayer that is just visible at the top right of the photo is exactly at the spot where you will be coming in from the right (and the real P.1 belay for 3Bs is about 40 feet above the belayer in the pic.) Apr 28, 2014
Alissa Doherty
Boston, MA
 
Alissa Doherty   Boston, MA
 
I agree that the fixed cam is manky at the start. I fell and it caught me but I noticed afterwards that it was a little too loose to trust. Oct 7, 2013
hasan Adil
portland,me
hasan Adil   portland,me
The fixed cam's sling is in quite bad shape thats near the start. Apr 22, 2013
Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
You can link the first two pitches with a 60m and careful slinging. Definately try the Starfire finish if it is dry. Tons of fun! Dec 25, 2011
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
The key words E- "when dry" ! ya that finish is YoYo/Starfire. Apr 6, 2010
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
I actually find the first pitch to be pretty enjoyable when dry with fun smeering/edging and good finger jams. On the second pitch one can lead up to the tree with slings, clip it long and do a slab traverse left into the 5.8/9? crack finish to what I believe it is starfire? The finish is dirty but kind of fun. Apr 4, 2010