Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Joe Cote, AL LaFleur Aug 1972
Page Views: 2,359 total · 16/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 19, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

Though it sees less traffic than its more moderate neighbors, Ventilator should definitely be on your to do list. It is a challenging, slabby climb that seems to have gotten more challenging over the years as useful holds have crumbled off, but overall the rock is nice the moves are fun and the pro is good. Well...except getting to that first bolt, that can be a bit scary. Basically, you have to do some cruxy climbing to gain the first bolt with a little ledge beneath you. Keep your head together and you will be fine.

Basically, you climb the first pitch of Bombardment, which is 5.6R, to a small ledge. Step about 10-15 feet right (place a few pieces in a crack on your way) until you are under the first bolt (an old but solid ring bolt). Just follow the bolts up the slab, then break right to a short crack and in to a gully which is followed to the tree ledge below the Barber Wall.

Location

15 feet right of Bombardment (5.8). Accessed from the ledge atop the first pitch of that route.

Protection

Draws and a few pieces of trad gear. Belay from trees above.

Photos

john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
The climbing is good but, this is a really poorly bolted route and always has been. It should be re-bolted in good style with the bolts in the right places. Apr 6, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Was this originally rap bolted? May 7, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
It would be nice to move the first bolt, that's for sure. The climbing up to it is dangerous. May 7, 2010
Goodhue
Colorado
 
Goodhue   Colorado
 
Granted, I hung at each bolt on my way up this but, I will say I thought the bolt placements were okay. It's known as a spicy route, and sometimes spicy routes are exciting when you want something... spicy. I was able to work halfway up to the first bolt and hop off back on to the ledge to get my confidence up. So I guess what I want to say is, I don't think the bolting should be changed. But then again, I'm a touron from out of state. Aug 20, 2010
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
not that good a line esp considering the now current start. should be re-done on lead IMO..

every bolt is in the wrong position, an early example of bad rap bolting May 13, 2013
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
 
I agree, John, and the climb has gotten harder over the years---a few tiny flakes have come off and all the skid marks make it kinda greasy. Getting to the first bolt is a bit of a head-trip, with ankle-tweaking potential. The first bolt should be about six inches left of where it is (or the holds should all be moved six inches to the right). If there is any humidity or the temperature is above 70, I'd skip this route (but I'm a bit of a wimp). Apr 28, 2014
I must have spent 15 minutes on that 6" ledge looking up at that
ring bolt. In the end, I think I placed gear FAR off to the left,
sucked it up, and got up to where I could grab that ring
bolt, hang on, and rodeo clip it. From the days when a "full rack
of cams" meant that you had a single #1, #2, and #3 camalot,
it was bolted decently. Go try some of the old school routes on
whitehorse slabs if you want to see runout.

An acquaintance of mine did the same thing, only he felt stylistically
bad about grabbing the bolt, and felt he had to back down and
do it clean. In the process of backing down, he came off
and broke his leg.

So, I'm happy with the style I did it in. In fact in the eyes
of most of today's climbers who are used to clipping bolts spaced at
2' in the gym and complain about "run-outs of 10 feet", I don't
think anyone would even notice :)

I did in the original 5.10 verticals from 1989. I'd love to go
back and try it in modern shoes. I shudder at what it was
probably originally climbed in.



Allan
(getting older and grumpier every day)



Aug 21, 2014
Conor Mark
Asheville, NC
Conor Mark   Asheville, NC
I climbed this this past October and thought it was pretty sweet. Got on it first thing on a cool morning and felt pretty secure getting to the first bolt, but damn is hard to clip that ring laying flat on the slab. I also thought bolt 4 seemed a little left of the natural line. Dec 9, 2014
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I bet that ring bolt badly needs replacement. From experience of some at Rumney, they look OK on the outside, but when you take them out to replace them they are horrifying. Dec 16, 2014
This is a stupid route. I said it 20 years ago when I led it,on sight, and I say it now. There is no excuse for a poorly bolted route that was done on rappel. The first bolt is in the wrong place and many people have been injured as a result. Like John said, it should be rebolted, and he was the man! Sep 15, 2017
Jason Scott Heacock
Milford, NH
Jason Scott Heacock   Milford, NH
Has this been rebolted yet, a lot of the comments seem to indicate the need for it. Oct 5, 2017