Once Upon A Climb
Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
Routes in Lower Left Wall / Ventilator Slabs
|Age Before Beauty T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Bombardment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Effects of Kind Bud on an Abnormal Brain, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Ego Trip S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Fisting Jon (AKA Leafspring) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Fun House T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Fun House Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Happy Trails T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|King Crab (Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0|
|Once Upon A Climb T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|One Hit To The Body T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Pleasant St. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Pooh T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Son Of A Birch T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Starfire (Yo-Yo) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Three Birches T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Ventilated Western Girl T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Ventilator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Western Lady/ California Girls T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R|
|Type:||Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Bill Lowther, Ozzie Blumit & Mark Lynch 1993|
|Page Views:||672 total, 7/month|
|Shared By:||E thatcher on Jul 12, 2010|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionThe rightmost of the trifecta of thin slab climbs on the lower left wall, Ego Trip, Starfire, and This one. Delicate smearing and thin crimps on the second pitch. The definition of insecure. Pitch 1 could make for a fun single pitch route if you are waiting for another climb on this wall. The route can be located left of the 3 birches arch, and immediately right of the large tree. Look for a bolt ~10' off the ground.
Pitch 1: Just left of 3 Birches is a small foot ramp leading to a bolt. Scramble up this and clip the bolt. Make a hard move to good holds and continue into the corner. Place the only piece on the route in this corner, or, if you trust them, clip the pins. Move easily up to the second bolt. At this bolt, make a hard slab move (crux) and continue to the two bolt belay. 5.9 40'
Pitch2: Easily climb right off of the belay and clip the first bolt. Make a hard slab move past this and continue up the face clipping 6 more bolts. All but one of these were drilled free and on the lead! The crux comes after the small overlap were the pitch steepens. There are actually small holds on this face, but it feels like a slab climb.
Clip the last bolt and join starfire, at the right angling finger crack (the most fun part of the climb!) The crack ends in a dirty corner that you can take the the ledge and a tree anchor. 5.11c 120'
ProtectionMostly bolt protected, but not necessarily a sport climb, some big "runners" can be taken through the crux section.
Bring a hand full of finger sized pieces for the 5.9 finger crack on the second pitch.
2 bolt belay on P1, and a tree anchor on P2.
Scramble left to a tree rappel with 2 ropes, or scramble up to the barber wall and continue up one of those fine climbs.