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Routes in Lower Left Wall / Ventilator Slabs

Age Before Beauty T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bombardment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Effects of Kind Bud on an Abnormal Brain, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ego Trip S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fisting Jon (AKA Leafspring) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fun House T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fun House Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Trails T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King Crab (Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0
Once Upon A Climb T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
One Hit To The Body T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Pleasant St. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pooh T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son Of A Birch T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Starfire (Yo-Yo) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Three Birches T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ventilated Western Girl T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Ventilator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Western Lady/ California Girls T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
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Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: J cote, L Poorman
Page Views: 15,287 total · 107/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 1, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is a very popular route as a first Cathedral climb...It can be very busy on weekends and should be avoided at these times if you don't like crowds (and who does?)....
One of the things that makes Fun House a great beginner route is that the climbing is challenging but well-protected and not too exposed...It has tree cover much of the way and that makes folk feel more comfortable....

Pitch 1: Climb the corner past a pin...Stemming and using really nice holds.... Mantel and climb the next corner section break left slightly to a crack, a tricky move puts you on a very brief slab and on to a very nice ledge where you belay from trees....

Pitch two: From the ledge, easy climbing will put you on another nice ledge.... Climb the short corner to a few cracks, climb the cracks ranging from fingers to wide hands to yet another ledge....
Continue up cracks until you can break right to a ledge and belay at a cluster of trees....

From here, choose your way to the tree ledge...The normal finish from here is Upper Refuse (5.5) or you could do any number of other great routes at harder grades than 5.7....

Location

On the lower, left slab to the right of the obvious arch of Three Birches (5.8).... Scramble up (40ft) to a ledge at the base of the right-facing corner that marks the first pitch of Fun House.... Be careful if you don't rope up, there are a few ways to get up there and you don't want to fall from any of them....

Protection

Normal rack to #3 cam.... Long slings are useful for slinging trees....
Todd Harris
Lakewood, CO
Todd Harris   Lakewood, CO
Climbed this route 08/2008. Solid 5.7. The first dihedral can spook a beginner leader due to the vertical nature of the rock. About 20 feet up the first dihedral, a perfectly placed pin allows for a nice quickdraw for additional security. The pin is solid. Looks like it's been there for years. While the dihedral has a slight overhang feeling to it in the middle (near the pin), the holds are perfectly situated to allow for ladder-like movement up the rock. Great climbing. It's my favorite 5.7 in the northeast. Get there early on the weekend. As soon as you finish the first dihedral, the climbing starts to get more slabby with good and varied holds. Mar 21, 2009
JSH

JSH    
The 2nd pitch crux feels a good touch harder to me, now that the tree root no longer offers a Samsonite(TM) jug past the bulging hand/fist section.

In contrast to the above comment: *don't* get there early, that's when everyone else gets there. Head up well past noon: it'll be shady, and hopefully the crowds will have dispersed. Apr 27, 2009
cjdrover
Watertown, MA
 
cjdrover   Watertown, MA
 
Todd is right - the pin is very solid. A new partner and I did this route 7/25/09 - I slipped of some nasty oozing slime while placing a piece higher up and took a surprise whipper onto the pin. So much for warming up on an easier route... Aug 2, 2009
Chris Graham
Bartlett, NH
  5.7+
Chris Graham   Bartlett, NH
  5.7+
I have always loved this route, it was my first 5.7 lead back in the early 80's so I have fond memories. I find it is a great climb to take with less experienced climbers as there is little exposure and big ledges to chill on. It is a blocky route and could easily snap ankles on any part of the climb at any given moment, so early leaders should stay focused when making the moves up...particularly on the second pitch (pooh link-up which most parties do). Still, they are fun moves, it protects well and offers one of the few easier ascents up the lower left wall. Aug 7, 2009
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
Just climbed it yesterday (first rock climb of the year), and it was nice and dry where others were still quite wet from the winter thaw. Havnt been on this since summer of 2,000. The pin was the first pro for me (I think it was only about ten feet from where I started), and I backed it up with a nut and from there, pushed through to the ledge. There is definitely room for more gear above the pin, but the stances are less solid. After, we did Upper-Refuse (a classic combo), but it was tricky to get onto becauce of the big bleeding ice column that looked ready to colapse. Mar 14, 2012
Barrett Stetson  
  5.7
Great route, protects plenty and especially where you need it. The start of the first pitch was a bit damp/slimy when we were there too, guessing it doesn't dry out as quickly as the rest of the route. Probably a good idea to anchor your belayer before starting P1, a bad slip on some dampness before your first piece could take you both for an unpleasant ride. Aug 5, 2012
Ian Dibbs
5.7+ PG13
Ian Dibbs  
5.7+ PG13
There is a trail which runs along the base of the cliff underneath the route where you can look up through the trees and confirm the starting location which can be seen shown in the other pictures. Getting to the base from the trail (40 feet up),can be slippery business after a rain, spacious area at base of climb when you get up to it. Aug 23, 2012
Eric Embree
Asheville, NC
Eric Embree   Asheville, NC
Havn't done this route yet, but can someone tell me how tall in feet this route is? Sep 10, 2012
Edge
R.I.P.
Edge   R.I.P.
Eric, the first pitch is about 80', and the second maybe 100'. Sep 10, 2012
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
You can make it to the tree ledge with a 60m , but i wouldn't..too much drag. Sep 10, 2012
Ryan Nelling
  5.7
Ryan Nelling  
  5.7
Brown's First is NOT a good route to warm-up on while waiting for the crowds to thin out on Funhouse..

Easy, fun, rad climb! Aug 9, 2013
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
So much fun!! What a great climb! The first pitch has two dicey issues for the leader: The dihedral, because it's a bit awkward and cramped/overhangy at the middle (thankfully you can clip a pin). Then the bulge above it is a rather interesting sequence of moves, with thin protection. Sep 17, 2013
Steamy Pits  
 
If you like climbing perfect hand crack pitch 2 will throw a big smile on your face. Nov 1, 2013
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
 
Just a tiny clarification. As written, the description describes the first pitch of Funhouse (to the big ledge) and then the second Pitch of Pooh (up the obvious crack). This is the way most people do the route, and they think they're on Funhouse all the way (and that's totally fine). However, the true second pitch of Funhouse is not to be missed! From the nice comfy ledge atop P.1, start 10 feet left of the hand crack (Pooh), surmount a tricky little bulge (.7) to a tree, scoot left then up and back right, and then climb a beautiful little 25' face that goes straight up to the red pine tree at the top at 5.6. The moves are great and the gear excellent. It's a nice little pitch in it's own right, and an easy and polite way to pass people gummed up on the second pitch of Pooh (which they think is Funhouse, remember, lol). Also, you can reach this same little face from Three Birches---another seldom done and awesome combo (see my comments for Three Birches). And, just to be nit-picky, the locals write Funhouse as one word (the winters are long here, not much else to do but misspell stuff.) Apr 28, 2014
M Bageant
Cambridge, MA
M Bageant   Cambridge, MA
I climbed this a while ago and I can't quite remember the details of the route...

I'll be out there soon with a beginner whom I'd love to give some trad leading experience, but 5.7 might be a little hard for her. Could anyone recommend where the second pitch crux (the Pooh pitch) occurs, and if there might be a belay spot above it that I could use to allow her a really easy lead up to the big tree ledge? May 6, 2015
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
I would say the upper part of Refuse would be a better easy lead than Fun House. A screw up on FH can easy result in ledge fall. May 6, 2015
M Bageant
Cambridge, MA
M Bageant   Cambridge, MA
Cool, thanks, John. I'll play it safe. May 7, 2015
PJ Benson
Jackson, NH
 
PJ Benson   Jackson, NH
 
Great climb, ran up it today as my first Cathedral multi-pitch. Be strategic with what tree you anchor off of at the top as I climbed a bit too far and zig-zagged around trees, resulting in tremendous rope drag! I'd say just scramble the last bit rather than be roped in. May 26, 2016

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