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Routes in Lower Left Wall / Ventilator Slabs

Age Before Beauty T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bombardment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Effects of Kind Bud on an Abnormal Brain, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ego Trip S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fisting Jon (AKA Leafspring) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fun House T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fun House Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Trails T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King Crab (Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0
Once Upon A Climb T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
One Hit To The Body T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Pleasant St. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pooh T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son Of A Birch T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Starfire (Yo-Yo) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Three Birches T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ventilated Western Girl T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Ventilator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Western Lady/ California Girls T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 3 pitches
FA: L poorman J Cote G Offenhartz 1969
Page Views: 2,591 total · 20/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 17, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

You & This Route


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Description

The popular opinion and the original line differ on this on... From what I've gathered pooh originally traversed left after the first pitch in to what we now call Fun House (5.7), which is historically called Fun House to Pooh... The newest guide book list the direct version of Pooh which is the popular way to do the route these days, this line borrowed from other routes to make a direct line and avoid traffic jams on "Fun House to Pooh"... Any feedback on this history is welcomed...

Pitch one:(5.7+) Start just right of Fun House up the hand/fist crack to a ledge walk right to where there is a large chock stone stuck in the chimney... this is the crux of this pitch, find the hidden holds and it will go at 5.7+ if you don't find the right holds it seems harder... pull up in to the chimney and follow a crack to the belay ledge...Belay from gear...

Pitch 2: (5.8++) This pitch seems very hard for the grade and could be sketchy to fall on due to the ledge below you... I'd say be very careful if you aren't a solid 5.9 leader... Basically do a boulder problem off the ledge to gain a crack that isn't as good as it looks (protect well) then a sandy mantel move on to the "Ballroom ledge"... belay from here on gear...

Pitch 3:(5.8) Step right about 10 feet and up a slightly awkward face/crack section which gets easier as it goes... Until you are scrambling up to the big tree ledge... Belay from trees...

This is a fun climb but id like to be clear that i find the crux stiff in the grade and a bit sketchy if care is not taken to protect from ledge fall...

Location

Just right of the start of Fun House (5.7) look for the chimney choked with a chock stone...

Protection

standard rack to #3 cam

Photos

Alissa Doherty
Boston, MA
Alissa Doherty   Boston, MA
I agree with a few other posters that the second pitch crux is really tough in the grade. The move feels similar to other Cathedral 5.10a/b climbs and is in ledge fall territory. I also didn't notice anything in the description about the tricky finish on P1 but I found it at least as challenging as the chockstone (it does take tons of gear though).

Besides the general sandbaggery, this is a very cool climb. My partner and I both cut our feet and swung on the chockstone move and it's not every day you get to do that on a 5.7! Aug 4, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i thought my description was pretty clear that the original line of the second pitch is on what we now call funhouse... if that was not clear im glad it is now being discussed since the "new" version could be a dangerous sandbag... again i did my best to make that clear... either way you do it its a very fun climb! Jul 22, 2014
losbill  
You were on what is traditionally known as the 3rd pitch of Rollin' & Tumblin'. Rated 5.8, definitely MA 5.8+++ in my very humble opinion. This is the pitch Lee is describing as the second pitch of Pooh. Traditionally it isn't but this is a confused section of the cliff. As described by Lee his third pitch of Pooh is actually the third pitch of Orcs. It climbs way better than it looks!

For the record I have seconded the second pitch of Pooh once and led it once. On lead I tried several times to gain the hand crack without success. Concerned with the definite chance of ledge fall I finally reached up, got a cam in the bottom of the hand crack, clipped it long and proceeded to aid up the bastard.

The second pitch of Pooh is the easy, wide crack at the end of the 1st pitch of Fun House that people commonly do as the second pitch of Fun House. It is not Fun House. The real Fun House second pitch, which no one does anymore, is 20 feet to the left along the ledge and past the pine tree from of the base of the Pooh crack. There you move up on the right side of the exposed slab.

Twenty feet to the right of the Pooh second pitch and at the finish of the 1st pitch of Pooh is the 3rd pitch of Rollin' & Tumblin'. A little confusing. Once you finish the first pitch of Pooh you walk left 20 feet on the ledge to the wide crack that is the second pitch of Pooh.

Directly above the finish to the first pitch of Pooh you will find the very thin, boulderly, difficult finger crack off the ledge that is the start to Rollin' & Tumblin's 3rd pitch. I have tried it two ways. One straight up the crack and the other moving up left of the crack and then back right to gain the hand crack. I found each to be as hard as the The Slot(5.10b) at the North End. But I am a big wimp and a klutz. Your mileage may vary. Jul 21, 2014
From what I have recently heard, people often do the first pitch of Pooh and the second pitch of Funhouse; but by Lee's and the new guidebook's description, the second pitch of Pooh is to the right of the second pitch of Funhouse (by 20 feet or so). I found the crux to be very stout for 5.8++ (add pluses as you wish!) Jul 21, 2014
We climbed Pooh yesterday as a warmup for The Book of Solemnity. It was clean and enjoyable. However, I would like to reiterate part of Lee's description. Pitch two is very hard for the grade. It is possible to set a good piece before leaving the belay, but this will not prevent hitting the ledge should you fall on the crux. It is necessary to make the crux moves and establish yourself solidly in the crack above before placing your next pro. We finished Pooh and went on to climb the Book. I was doing all the leading and cruised the Book (5.10a) The hardest moves of the day for me were on pitch 2 of Pooh. Jul 19, 2014
Jason Denver  
 
I thought this was a great alternative to Funhouse. A bit harder, good cracks, and zero crowding. It's fairly clean now and provides a consistent grade up to the big half-way ledge. I'll definitely go back for more! Also I did it in two pitches by combining p2 & p3. Sep 22, 2012
Galen Rahmlow
Woodbury, MN
  5.8
Galen Rahmlow   Woodbury, MN
  5.8
The chock stone is a great challenge and the crux can be well protected. Well worth it! May 1, 2012

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