5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 1 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Larry Poorman, John Merril. April 12, 1970. FFA Bob Anderson, Mark Haymond, Eric Radack.|
|Page Views:||214 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||Ryan DeLena on Nov 29, 2021|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall|
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An obscure 5.8 on the far right end of the Lower Wall that leads up to the Upper Refuse Ledge. This one is not obvious from below which is probably why it so quickly fell into obscurity, I didn’t even know where it was until I stumbled upon it by accident in the guidebook. Orc has 2 independent and adventurous 5.8 pitches, and shares the last one with Pooh 5.8+. The route has accumulated a good bit of dirt and lichen, especially on the first pitch, so do Three Birches and Pooh first if you haven’t done them, but if you’re like me and you’re simply running out of 8s on this cliff, here’s one more for you.
Pitch 1: Start to the right of Pooh, at the base of a big dirty corner below an obvious roof. Climb the right facing corner up to a serious of ledges. You could link into the next pitch, but for the sake of rope drag and communication, it's easier to build a gear belay on the second ledge below the roof. 50' 5.7 *An alternate first pitch climbs a corner to the right at a more consistent 5.8.*
Pitch 2: From the ledge, move up into a weakness in the roofs above. Pull through the weakness (crux, awkward) to a crack above. Much like the other routes on this wall, once past the crux you follow low angle cracks up to the belay, a gear anchor on a nice big ledge (same belay as Pooh P2). 60' 5.8
Pitch 3: This is where you join Pooh 5.8+. Climb a steep crack off the ledge, then make an awkward move to gain lower angle ground. Climb the low angle crack into lichen and pine needles above (not as scary as it sounds) until you reach the trail to Upper Refuse, belay from a tree. 70' 5.8
From here you can continue up Upper Refuse, or for more 5.8 awkwardness, do Black Lung to Final Gesture.
Hike up the blazed trail to the Lower Wall, scramble up through steep ground on roots and slabs towards the base of Fun House/Pooh, then move right along a ledge to the base of the big, right facing corner.