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Routes in Lower Left Wall / Ventilator Slabs

Age Before Beauty T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bombardment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Effects of Kind Bud on an Abnormal Brain, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ego Trip S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fisting Jon (AKA Leafspring) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fun House T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fun House Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Trails T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King Crab (Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0
Once Upon A Climb T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
One Hit To The Body T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Pleasant St. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pooh T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son Of A Birch T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Starfire (Yo-Yo) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Three Birches T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ventilated Western Girl T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Ventilator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Western Lady/ California Girls T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Brad White
Page Views: 1,317 total, 10/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 22, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

I gave the route 3 stars. Keep in mind that only applies to folks who like hard slab climbing. Then again, if you don't like hard slab, then you need to find another route.

Pitch 1: (5.10 b/c) Climb up the smooth face past a bolt. Optional protection between this and the next 2 bolts (I guess there is a place for a pink tricam, but I've not used it). This pitch is fun all on its own, and works well to get to the ledge where you can link up with a few other routes. Belay from the anchor just left and up from the pine tree.

Pitch 2: (5.11c) Slab/thin face climbing. Think friction, you will need it. Not recommended on a hot day.

From the anchor, take a few steps right and start up the smooth slab. This part was much harder than I thought it would be. Climb using dime edges and crazy body tension past bolts towards the small overlap above (crux). At the crux overlap, there is an OK rest but not much. Then try to find your way over or around this feature. I tried to go left where it was cleaner and fell a few times. My partner went a little right where it was kinda dirty and made it nice and clean. Bottom line is that the sequence is not obvious. After this, head up angling slightly right up the relentless steep slab. I remember only one "real" rest, balancing on a small foot hold crimp. Continue up to the big ledge and belay from a tree.

Typing this brings back happy nightmares....

The pitch is 130 feet with 13 bolts, so though it's not a crazy runout by slab standards, it isn't too sporty either.

Location

Starts a few routes to the left of Three Birches (5.8) up a face, below and to the left of a large pine tree growing about 50 ft up the cliff.

Protection

13 quick draws can get you there, but a pink tricam may be desired on the 1st pitch.

Pitch 1: three bolts and a pink tricam.
Pitch 2: 13 bolts.

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Adam Kunis
Athens/Plymouth
Adam Kunis   Athens/Plymouth
A great thin slab climb that stays on you the whole way. Nov 20, 2016
Jason Scott Heacock
Milford, NH
 
Jason Scott Heacock   Milford, NH
 
The upper section of the second pitch has moss-like growth on some of the holds and I presume has some dirt that is hard to manage;running down in areas. A nice broad brush would do wonders to anyone looking for a clean send with clean holds!

But for me this was the hardest slab I've ever tried, and can't wait to get back and give it another serious go top down to really work out the crux moves. Sep 1, 2014
Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
P1: Lots of fun, I agree with the tricam beta. The alien works but isn't confidence-inspiring to a wimp like me.

P2: Thin and excellent climbing. This is the sort of route where the holds are JUST big enough to convince you to keep going. The overhang stumped me, have to go back and try again! Nov 11, 2013
hole between the second first and second bolt on the first pitch takes a good red alien if placed sideways and rotated. the overlap is the crux on the second pitch for sure but the rest of the route is sustained 10, if you can do the crux you should be able to finish the route. Sep 27, 2011
Chris Graham
Bartlett, NH
Chris Graham   Bartlett, NH
I would agree with Tim J about the tricam. When I first did the route I couldn't get the pink or red to work in that pocket, the blue fit really well and I have used that piece exclusively on the first pitch. Some folks just skip the gear placement and run it out to the next bolt, but for the short time it takes to drop a tricam in, I prefer to protect the moves to the third bolt. Great route!!! Nov 23, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
I attempted to lead it onsight and ended up with a one hang (or a few hangs on the one crux move if i remember right)... the bolt placement isnt "sporty" but its safe for sure... I found it quite mild compared to Western Lady which is slightly more moderate but the bolts are way more spread out... I really want to get back on ego trip and send it so you might see another party leading it one day :) Aug 7, 2009
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  5.11c
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  5.11c
I certainly will never lead this climb, but I have tr'd it a few times and agree that it is very difficult and VERY sustained. In the 10+ years I have been climbing on cathedral I've only seen one party trying to lead it. Aug 7, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
I've been on a bunch of 5.11 granite slabs (even sent a few of them), but Ego Trip is BY FAR the most sustained slab climbing I have ever tried. Though the overhang is the technical crux, the bigger difficulty is keeping your wits about you for the 45+ minutes it takes to climb the pitch. By the top, my mind was as fried as my calves--and I was seconding.

I wonder how many people have sent this cleanly in recent years. It's one thing to bust out a few 5.11 slab moves. It's a whole other thing to be in the 5.11 slab zone for what seems like an eternity. Aug 7, 2009
Tim J.
Loudon, NH
 
Tim J.   Loudon, NH
 
This is a great route even if you're just following the second pitch like I did. Prepare for sore calves and big toes. The first pitch is fun with a very brief and well bolted crux. I used a blue tricam in the pocket midway up. I'm not sure a pink would be quite big enough. Jul 6, 2009