Avg: 2.7 from 14 votes
Routes in Lower Left Wall / Ventilator Slabs
|Age Before Beauty T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Bombardment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Effects of Kind Bud on an Abnormal Brain, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Ego Trip S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Fisting Jon (AKA Leafspring) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Fun House T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Fun House Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Happy Trails T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|King Crab (Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0|
|Once Upon A Climb T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|One Hit To The Body T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Pleasant St. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Pooh T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Son Of A Birch T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Starfire (Yo-Yo) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Three Birches T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Ventilated Western Girl T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Ventilator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Western Lady/ California Girls T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R|
|Type:||Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||1,317 total, 10/month|
|Shared By:||lee hansche on Apr 22, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionI gave the route 3 stars. Keep in mind that only applies to folks who like hard slab climbing. Then again, if you don't like hard slab, then you need to find another route.
Pitch 1: (5.10 b/c) Climb up the smooth face past a bolt. Optional protection between this and the next 2 bolts (I guess there is a place for a pink tricam, but I've not used it). This pitch is fun all on its own, and works well to get to the ledge where you can link up with a few other routes. Belay from the anchor just left and up from the pine tree.
Pitch 2: (5.11c) Slab/thin face climbing. Think friction, you will need it. Not recommended on a hot day.
From the anchor, take a few steps right and start up the smooth slab. This part was much harder than I thought it would be. Climb using dime edges and crazy body tension past bolts towards the small overlap above (crux). At the crux overlap, there is an OK rest but not much. Then try to find your way over or around this feature. I tried to go left where it was cleaner and fell a few times. My partner went a little right where it was kinda dirty and made it nice and clean. Bottom line is that the sequence is not obvious. After this, head up angling slightly right up the relentless steep slab. I remember only one "real" rest, balancing on a small foot hold crimp. Continue up to the big ledge and belay from a tree.
Typing this brings back happy nightmares....
The pitch is 130 feet with 13 bolts, so though it's not a crazy runout by slab standards, it isn't too sporty either.
LocationStarts a few routes to the left of Three Birches (5.8) up a face, below and to the left of a large pine tree growing about 50 ft up the cliff.
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