Type: Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Brad White
Page Views: 2,925 total · 14/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Apr 22, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


16 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

I gave the route 3 stars. Keep in mind that only applies to folks who like hard slab climbing. Then again, if you don't like hard slab, then you need to find another route.

Pitch 1: (5.10 b/c) Climb up the smooth face past a bolt. Optional protection between this and the next 2 bolts (I guess there is a place for a pink tricam, but I've not used it). This pitch is fun all on its own, and works well to get to the ledge where you can link up with a few other routes. Belay from the anchor just left and up from the pine tree.

Pitch 2: (5.11c) Slab/thin face climbing. Think friction, you will need it. Not recommended on a hot day.

From the anchor, take a few steps right and start up the smooth slab. This part was much harder than I thought it would be. Climb using dime edges and crazy body tension past bolts towards the small overlap above (crux). At the crux overlap, there is an OK rest but not much. Then try to find your way over or around this feature. I tried to go left where it was cleaner and fell a few times. My partner went a little right where it was kinda dirty and made it nice and clean. Bottom line is that the sequence is not obvious. After this, head up angling slightly right up the relentless steep slab. I remember only one "real" rest, balancing on a small foot hold crimp. Continue up to the big ledge and belay from a tree.

Typing this brings back happy nightmares....

The pitch is 130 feet with 13 bolts, so though it's not a crazy runout by slab standards, it isn't too sporty either.

Location Suggest change

Starts a few routes to the left of Three Birches (5.8) up a face, below and to the left of a large pine tree growing about 50 ft up the cliff.

Protection Suggest change

13 quick draws can get you there, but a pink tricam may be desired on the 1st pitch.

Pitch 1: three bolts and a pink tricam.
Pitch 2: 13 bolts.

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