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Routes in The Mordor Wall

Armaggedon T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Bridge of Khazad-Dûm, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cecile T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Difficulties be Damned T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Division of Labour T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Free Finale/Mordor Roof link-up T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
French Connection T A3
Grand Finale T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b C2 R
Highway 61 T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lights in the Forest T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
MOE T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mines of Moria T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a C2
Mordor Wall, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2
Pendulum Route T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Slippery Corner (Apocalypse / Diagonal Variation) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown A4
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Aid, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Joe Cote, John Porter, and Paul Ross - May 8, 1972
Page Views: 4,631 total · 45/month
Shared By: nhclimber on Sep 9, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Boulder up a low slopping ledge to the start of a shallow right facing corner. Easy aid up bolts and pins to a thin placement then up a nice corner to a 2 bolt anchor on the left side of a ledge, skip this and move right to another anchor next to a large flake. Up the flake to a bolt ladder, some of these bad boys are from the FA and suck. But a couple were replaced 2 years ago. Follow the bolt ladder to a flake and this to a corner and the belay. The third pitch starts up the same crack system to a bolt on the left, clip this and lower way down and left to a large corner system which is easily climb up to you can clip some fixed heads and gain the ledge under the bridge. A great alternative that is the best way to go in the winter is straight up from the bolt following a great A2 crack and joins the regular route at the heads. The bridge it's straight forward and you know exactly where to go, but it is gut busting awkward. Bring the big guns for this one. The crux is going through the flare into the roof proper. Follow the roof and round the corner to another set of bolted anchors. Now traverse off left following a ledgy bushy traverse ledge.

Location

Maybe 50' to the left of the Pendulum tree, RIP.

Protection

Standard clean aid rack, 2-4, 2-5, 1-6.

Photos

HugoD  
I'm planning to climb this route in two days. Does anyone know if a portaledge is required (i.e. how big are the ledges?) Jun 13, 2013
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
 
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
 
I think that only the second pitch didn't go, he sent the first pitch as part of Highway 61. Which then finishes up the A4 route that crazy dave did 7-8 years ago. That's a great aid line. Sep 30, 2009
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
A lot of this route is free with some of the worst fixed gear on the cliff. Tim ? Sep 30, 2009
Got to keep you guys on your toes! Sep 10, 2009
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
 
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
 
Of course you look at the one that I didn't get to finish! Thanks. Sep 10, 2009
Nice one, keep the routes coming. Sep 9, 2009