Type: Trad, Aid, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Joe Cote, John Porter, and Paul Ross - May 8, 1972
Page Views: 5,494 total · 45/month
Shared By: nhclimber on Sep 9, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Boulder up a low slopping ledge to the start of a shallow right facing corner. Easy aid up bolts and pins to a thin placement then up a nice corner to a 2 bolt anchor on the left side of a ledge, skip this and move right to another anchor next to a large flake. Up the flake to a bolt ladder, some of these bad boys are from the FA and suck. But a couple were replaced 2 years ago. Follow the bolt ladder to a flake and this to a corner and the belay. The third pitch starts up the same crack system to a bolt on the left, clip this and lower way down and left to a large corner system which is easily climb up to you can clip some fixed heads and gain the ledge under the bridge. A great alternative that is the best way to go in the winter is straight up from the bolt following a great A2 crack and joins the regular route at the heads. The bridge it's straight forward and you know exactly where to go, but it is gut busting awkward. Bring the big guns for this one. The crux is going through the flare into the roof proper. Follow the roof and round the corner to another set of bolted anchors. Now traverse off left following a ledgy bushy traverse ledge.

Location

Maybe 50' to the left of the Pendulum tree, RIP.

Protection

Standard clean aid rack, 2-4, 2-5, 1-6.

Photos