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Magic Light 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 3,311
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 24, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (60)
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Carmen clipping the anchor on Magic Light with Ove...
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Description 

Shares the first couple of bolts with Overboard. Another great warmup if you only climb the lower 5.11b pitch as most people do. A thin and pumpy crux finishes off this fine pitch


Protection 

9 bolts to a bolted anchor, or keep going through 7 more to the top of the second pitch



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By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Oct 22, 2006

A.K.A. "Traffic Light" due to the nonstop traffic on the first pitch.

By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 8, 2006

I would say the first pitch crux comes lower down with the traverse and thin crimpy sequence afterwards. The pump gets alot of people at the top but the moves are definately not thin there.

I have maybe seen one ascent of the second pitch. The first pitch is one of the best of the grade at Smith though.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 27, 2006
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

If you've ever wondered why Watts gives this route only 2 stars, try the extension. Apparently 4 stars plus zero stars divided by 2, equals 2 stars. A new anchor has been added on the extension that actually shortens the original 12b pitch by 2 bolts. Fear not, all the original hardware is still in place; its still entirely possible to climb the original sketchfest, but its no longer mandatory. The new anchor allows for TR-ing with a 70m rope, and is located at the end of the 'good' climbing, just below the upper crux. If you climb to the new anchor the route is a stiff 12a. To get full 12b credit you'll need to brave the minefield of sketchy knobs and ancient spinner SMC bolts that lead to the highest anchor. The section up to the 12a anchor has pretty good rock, but its basically thin crack climbing except for a few fun, juggy moves just below the anchor. The section immediately above the 12a anchor is very thin with no chalk whatsoever. There are many holds, but they're all small. If you veer more than a foot or so off the bolt line you'll likely pull something off. Of course, that might happen regardless of where you climb.

By Mark Gibson
From: Seattle, WA
Mar 25, 2009

To the first anchors is 11a. The crux comes in the lower/middle as you traverse left on crimps. Cool moves through the crux yield to absolutely enormous jugs nearly all the way to the anchors. When the holds start to peeter out near the anchors, think sideways. A good climb and the most popular 11a at Smith.

By Mike Rowley
From: Boise, Idaho
Jan 30, 2012

Going to the second anchor is one of the most fun .12a pitches in the park!!! So good! It is a long pumpy route that you need to get on if you climb 5.12!

By CritConrad
From: Bend, OR
Nov 8, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

The extension above the first anchor has four bolts and an anchor and adds an exciting bit of climbing with enough space between bolts to make you pay attention to what you're doing. Still holds its reign in my opinion of the best 12a on the Tuff that i've done....so far!

By MikaelBrem
From: Beaverton, OR
Feb 7, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b PG13

I loved the first pitch when I was just a boy. Need to go back & finish the 2nd pitch

By richard magill
Aug 29, 2013

Phenomenal to the first set of anchors. Great movement, burly, felt harder than Yak Crack at Red Rocks...

By donggua
Sep 11, 2013

havent climb the whole thing yet because 12b is a little bit beyond me. Only made it to the first set of anchor, feels like an easy 11 or extremely pumpy 10d, super super fun