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The Dihedrals
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Slow Burn 
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To Bolt Or Not To Be 
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Watts Totts 
Wedding Day 

Heinous Cling 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Alan Watts, 4/84
Page Views: 7,992
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006
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Description 

The best route of its grade at Smith. With a dynamic crux coming near the top, a climber needs to be careful to avoid getting pumped on the technical crimps and pockets below. The route is perfectin pretty much every way. The falls are clean and the climbing exciting, and this route should be on every climber's tick-list.

Although the route extends to the top of the cliff, the upper section is rarely done. Both pitches together bump the grade to a very pumpy 5.12c with a couple of good runouts at the top. Almost all ascents of this route stop at the anchors halfway up.

It's located just to the right of Chain Reaction in the middle of the Dihedrals.


Protection 

5 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor. An additional 3 bolts protect the less-traveled top portion of the route.



Photos of Heinous Cling Slideshow Add Photo
Pat sending.
Pat sending.
A good view of a climber on Heinous Cling, with Darkness at Noon immediately left and Chain Reaction on the left arete. Photo taken Sept 97.
A good view of a climber on Heinous Cling, with Da...
Starting Heinous Cling.
Starting Heinous Cling.
Heinous indeed. <br />Photo by: Sam Cody
Heinous indeed.
Photo by: Sam Cody
Comments on Heinous Cling Add Comment
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By Vernon Stiefel
Jan 27, 2006
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

The crux on the upper portion of Heinous Cling is 5.12 involving sequential and bouldery moves. Hence, the 12c rating. I was able to exact a long rest by jamming the deep pocket after the crux and alternately hanging off each arm before charging to the top. The runout section past the final bolt is probably 10+ / 11-.

By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Aug 3, 2006
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Quite a technical route. Pockets, crimps, and a dyno.... no wonder it's so popular. I found it to be a bit sketchy after the crux dyno until you make the clip.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 27, 2006

The 12a version of this route is much harder for 'short' people. I'm not sure what the height cutoff is, but at 5'7" I can do the standard beta. However, my 5'5" GF had to do a crazy heel hook maneuver (with the left foot) to set up for the crux crimping section. Essentially it adds a new, even harder crux, just below the 'actual' crux.

By Wolfgang Braun
From: Beavercreek, Oregon
Oct 13, 2008
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

I'm 5'3" and could do the moves without any crazy heel hook. I just did a big back step on the crux of the 12a climbing. And found the moves to the big ledge not that bad.

By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
Apr 20, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Yep, I'm 5 foot even and did the crux of the 12a part without any high heel hook. I just locked off those crimpers, brought my feet up and grabbed the rail. It wasn't even dynamic. I haven't been on the upper section yet though.