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Unsorted Routes:

Tingey's Direct 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: John Rogers and Tim Murphy 84' (sans bolts and with pants on fire)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,383
Submitted By: Orphaned on Oct 31, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Sam on his way to the groove on Tingey's Direct

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Thrash up and past 2 or 3 trees to the yellow patina face. Step out onto the face and clip a retro bolt. Slab your way up using really nice holds passing 2 more retro bolts, after the 3rd retro bolt keep cruising up to join the last 2 moves on the Groove pitch. From here pad your way up the ultra classic "Terror" pitch on Tingy's passing 3 bolts to Fudd Ledge.

This makes for a nice long continuous 120 foot pitch.


From the start of the 2nd pitch on Tingy's there is a tree shelf after a little roof. Instead of climbing up the Tingy's corner, thrash your way past the slung trees (rappel station). There is a good stance just above these trees and a hand crack that takes bomber cams, belay here.


QD's, #1 camalot or .75 camalot, a sling for the cam on the Groove. You can use a small TCU to protect the moves from the Groove to the "Terror" pitch (sling this too).

A #2 Camalot and #4 Metolius for the belay is nice.

Comments on Tingey's Direct Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 8, 2010
By zoso
Nov 1, 2008

The Ruckman book shows a bolt on the groove pitch, but I've never seen it. Since you have a drill...
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Nov 3, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Probably the best and most direct way to get to fudd ledge if you're trying to link pitches on Tingey's. This variation avoids the easy but runout traverse to the bolts of the terror slab.
I got to the start of the route (rap tree anchor) in 1 pitch from the base of Tarzan. Quite long and the rope drag gets heinous if you place gear anywhere near the top of Tarzan (don't clip the anchors or sling the tree to the right of the anchors, run it out on the easy slab to the lieback corner).
You have to bushwack a bit to get below the first bolt, but it's not as bad as indecent exposure (wink wink).
Once it cleans up it will be similar to a low angle Viewing, with good patina edges and well spaced bolts. Bring a .5 or .75 for the groove (coolest feature!) and some slings for trees.
By bsmoot
Nov 18, 2008

Don't ever remember a bolt being there. You can get some gear in.
By LCC Climber
Aug 8, 2010

I broke the bolt when I fell on it in the 1990s.

Rock Climbing Photo: Tourist Trap Direct
Tourist Trap Direct
By Luke Douglas
Aug 8, 2010

Those 90's sure were sooomethin'! I would love to see a picture of the old bolt hole, which was supposedly in the groove not where you indicate.
Bad memory or just plain ol'BS?
By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Aug 9, 2010

The bolt hole is there, just below where the good gear starts in the groove.
By Luke Douglas
Aug 10, 2010

So is it in the groove or out as indicated by the above topo? Is there a bolt there now? More info will make it easier to find the hole as I and most others have never seen it. If the bolt has been replaced then why not post this worthy variation up in the data base? Is the bolt hole the one shown in the Ruckman guide for the groove pitch? I will go look. Thanks for the info. Must of been a bloody near death fall!
By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Aug 10, 2010

I'm sure the old hole is from the bolt listed in the Ruckman guide. Looking at the above photo the hole is about 10' left and then another 10' straight down, almost directly under the crack. I checked it out a couple of years ago and it looks like the bolt broke off flush with the rock, hard to see and harder to find. Was probably an old 1/4''er. Might be cool if it got replaced cause that would make a much better pitch with the slab above...but I'm not the bolt placing kinda guy.
By Luke Douglas
Aug 10, 2010

So LCC Climber's comment about the bolt is unrelated to the Tourist Trap variation.
Is The Tourist Trap a new variation with a new bolt, does it use one of the last bolts of the Tingey's Direct variation.
By mikewhite
Aug 10, 2010

Sounds like it should go back in then. Any thoughts on it?

He He..
By bsmoot
Aug 11, 2010

By Tea
Aug 11, 2010

+1 for no bolt.

I have climbed the groove numerous times, and could never even find the old hole....figured it was a typo.

"I broke the bolt when I fell on it in the 1990s."

oh we go again.
By tenesmus
Aug 11, 2010

Ahhh. I get it now. I was wondering about the fantasmagorical version of undocumented events. The cryptic deletion of posts and the really bad bolt icons on the photos.

Here we go again...
By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Aug 11, 2010

NOOOOOOOOOOO! Tene, say it isn't so!
By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Oct 6, 2010

Prolly saw it after that 2007 comment but positive it was there. Climbed the variation again 2 weeks ago and we couldn't find it.
By ddriver
From: SLC
Oct 7, 2010

"This pitch was put up ground first."

Whatever. Looks like the same terrain I lead 10 years ago on gear, as I'm sure many others have. No bolts needed or wanted.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 8, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

It would take a serious pair to lead that on (no) gear. It's still pretty ricey and there's a lot of ground to cover between the trees and the groove.
I say leave it (I don't consider that double standard). If the FA objects, pull it and it will never be done again. Tingeys will be a wandering annoying route again.

Does this have anything to do with the mystery bolt? Wouldn't that be a different line? Seems like TP's line if further out right...
By Luke Douglas
Oct 8, 2010

It would be cool if John can get up there and verify. Some of the pictures posted are misleading about where the climb goes.The line of bolts moves left from the start. Could be Tourist Trap Direct too? I agree with TP though, if we bolted John's 5.7X I'll help pull and patch.
By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Oct 8, 2010

So do you sign your checks with "TP in SLC?" Just sayin... As for your line, it was fun and separate from The Groove me thinks..hope thats not what all the hoopla about the groove bolt discussion was about. I wouldn'ta done it w/o bolts. Seems there are other "developers" in LCC more deserving of criticism.

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