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YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Alan Cattabriga, 1989
Page Views: 23,758
Submitted By: Kayte Knower on Oct 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (511)
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Near the crux


Junco starts with easy slab climbing. Thought provoking moves gain a stellar finger crack. Lay back and jam (crux) over the top bulge with considerable exposure and a fabulous view. My favorite 5.8 at Rumney.

Note - Watch that you don't get your rope stuck in the crack near the top. Check before your foot gets above the bolt and you can't flip it out with your toe.


Junco is on the far right side of Jimmy Cliff, but left of the blunt arete of Lonesome Dove (10a). Easily identified by the finger crack at the top of the line.


Glue in bolts

Photos of Junco Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sarah making the long reach to the sloping rail on...
Sarah making the long reach to the sloping rail on...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom on route
Tom on route
Rock Climbing Photo: The Junco and Lonesome Dove.
BETA PHOTO: The Junco and Lonesome Dove.
Rock Climbing Photo: There is a no hands rest right here..
BETA PHOTO: There is a no hands rest right here..
Rock Climbing Photo: Junco
Rock Climbing Photo: awesome climbing
awesome climbing
Rock Climbing Photo: Where Junco goes.
BETA PHOTO: Where Junco goes.
Rock Climbing Photo: taking a pause....
taking a pause....
Rock Climbing Photo: good times
good times
Rock Climbing Photo: Katrina in the Junco
Katrina in the Junco
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh Starting the Layback Section
Josh Starting the Layback Section
Rock Climbing Photo: Shawn nearing the top of Junco. It made me feel li...
Shawn nearing the top of Junco. It made me feel li...

Comments on Junco Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 18, 2016
By Patrick Bagley
Oct 22, 2006

I suppose it would be hard to campus this one, huh?
By Steve Marr
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 1, 2007

Great route. A long sling is useful at the third bolt. The layback moves near the top will make you think.
By BrianWinslow
From: Concord, NH
Aug 16, 2007

I had a rope get stuck in the top of the finger crack after I had moved onto the final slab, it sucked, watch out. This is an excellent route.
By KeithRD
Sep 20, 2007

I also got the rope stuck in the crack on the top. I felt the tug from below just before I reached the anchor. Not fun, due caution. Probably due to the fact that I had no idea what I was doing at that point in my climbing....
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Dec 3, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A great 5.8 which feels a bit more traditional than others of the same grade in Rumney.
By BTodd
May 26, 2008

My friend and I agreed that this is the best climb on this section of the wall, even better than lonesome dove (which gets all the stars in the book..I think)
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 27, 2008

Ultra fun 5.8!! but be wary of the crack near the top. Had watched rope get caught up twice within the hour.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Dec 1, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is my all time favorite 5.8 it cannot be beat. I do this everytime I in the area.
By Adrian Kostrubiak
From: Hanover, NH
Oct 20, 2009

I'll echo what others have said: watch your rope at the crux, as mine got stuck in that finger crack.
Otherwise, super fun and mellow route.
By S. Neoh
May 24, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I, too, got my rope stuck recently on this route. For me, first time in 20 years for getting a rope stuck during an ascent. Rather unusual situation.

Also, the quick-clips (3 of them) on the anchor are already quite worn so please help pass along the word not to TR directly through the quick clips. Thanks.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Mar 20, 2012

The verdict with the two parties I climbed this with on two ascents is that it's height dependent. Tall people have a much easier time at the upper crux.
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Apr 6, 2013

I don't see this one ever getting old...
By Julia Lee
From: Royal Oaks, MI
Apr 15, 2013

Junco might climb a little differently now. On 4/14, we watched some guy do some "cleaning" and take/rip off (on purpose) 2 huge flakes off Junco.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Apr 15, 2013

Whereabouts were the flakes, Julia?
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 15, 2013

if they were on route he musta been a strong dude! cause thats a solid chunk of rock...

i do remember some loose-ish flakes when i did a link up from junco in to lonesome dove, might have been over that way....
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Apr 15, 2013

A little disheartened to hear this....any more info would be appreciated. I'll be up there tomorrow and will check it out and report back.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Apr 15, 2013

From an email, it was a flake just above the climber's head in the picture "Tom on route". ..not sure if right or left. If it was actually loose, it was a public service. Lots of people hang out below.

When the bolts went in years ago, I cleaned the route, including any loose stuff. (it cut in from the side originally, not up the slab) I remember a little that I wouldn't want to put gear behind, but thought they were fine to climb on. I left those, not wanting to be too heavy handed on an established climb. They could have loosened up more with all the traffic etc. Hopefully the character didn't change too much and the clips are still OK. The rock there is so nice. Change can be OK.
By Russell Cohen
From: Redwood City, California
Apr 22, 2013

I climbed this yesterday (post flake removal). It still went very fairly at 5.8+ and the bolts were still good. Classic route!
By kstanchak
May 7, 2013

Climbed Junco this past Sunday. The guy who removed the flakes was climbing next to us. The rock blocks now make nice little belay seats right below the route. Bolts were solid. 8+ still seems appropriate. Super fun up top, although I don't think that crack was the most difficult section.
By Jon Hollander
Jul 1, 2013

Did this with a mix of gear and bolts and found it to be a lot of fun. I thought the gear was really tricky (although the stances for placing were all really solid so I had time to play around with different pieces) and found small/medium offset nuts to be extremely useful. Added a bit of spice to an already great sport route. Definitely wouldn't do this on just gear as a beginner, like I am. It was really nice having the bolts right there when I wasn't sure about the gear!
By Lundy Bancroft
Jul 16, 2013

I just heard that a big section at the bottom of The Junco (bottom two bolts) just fell off. Does anyone know if this is true? And if so, did it affect Lonesome Dove or Hammond Organ? (This may be a rumor from people who were confusing Junco with Jolt -- although they were saying the bottom of the route fell off, not the top. I still haven't heard whether this really happened or not.) UPDATE: Nothing happened at Junco. Whoever said that was obviously confusing it with Jolt, although even so they got the details wrong (top of Jolt fell off, not the bottom). The Junco is just the same as it has always been, I was just there.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 3, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I don't know if the bottom of Junco fell off. I climbed it again in July, 2013, and there was no change in the route then. I will say this about the route for those who haven't climbed it——it is without question (along with Lonesome Dove next door) one of the great aesthetic routes at Rumney. The line is obvious, attractive, and pleasantly sustained at the grade. If you like to rock climb, you'll love this route.
By Kurt G.
From: Reading, PA
Sep 16, 2014

not sure who handles the upkeep at rumney but I was just on junko this weekend and one of the quick clip anchors has a loose gate that stays about half way open. when you try to close it the gate just falls open again. the other anchor is in good shape but to be safe the first one should be replaced.
By Lynette Cornell
From: Manchester, New Hampshire
Oct 17, 2014

Did this one in a light rain, which made it all the more exciting! Big, beautiful holds become super tricky when slick with water and the jugs become little swimming pools for your fingers! The bottom part is a nice warmup boulder problem.
By bill healey
Jun 13, 2015

just climbed this 2 days ago, and a message of warning:

there is a flake on the left side of the route right before the crux, that I could feel moving as I was using it as a hand hold. it was probably 12 inches tall by 15 inches wide, the triangle shaped flake, probably going to rip out this season.
By Graham O.
Jul 26, 2016

This climb is amazing. Mega-jugs everywhere you look, I think the crux is finding which ones to use! The view is by far the best part.
By Peter Sullivan
Sep 18, 2016
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Great route. Absolutely worthwhile if you have time for the hike up. Super sustained fun route.

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