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Nov 8, 2004
The dihedral left of P2 of OtH is a stellar pitch. I get the feeling it's underrated because of its proximi… View Comment
Oct 26, 2004
No consensus? Well, then I'll cast my vote. I'm glad the bolts are gone, though it doesn't make up for them… View Comment
Jun 25, 2004
Gumbies beware: Pitch 2 (assuming 3 pitches) is really run-out 5.6. I tried the old "I'll lead the easy… View Comment
Jun 16, 2004
I didn't think it was harder than 5.9, but I wasn't on lead. My partner didn't think it was harder than 5.9… View Comment
Jun 11, 2004
I belayed a beginner leader on this yesterday (not his first lead, but close). He did the whole route in on… View Comment
Jun 1, 2004
Good route for a beginner leader - I belayed a friend of mine on his second trad lead. There is good gear a… View Comment
Jun 1, 2004
Pitch 1 is quite fun. The start seems easier than 5.8 to me; the face above it seems hard for a 5.6. Pitch… View Comment
May 21, 2004
You can protect the opening moves with a small cam (1-1.5cm). I had my belayer hand it up to me after I got… View Comment
May 10, 2004
I finally climbed this last Friday. The climbing, position, and views are all fantastic. I did seven long r… View Comment
Dec 11, 2003
Calling this route 4th class is a disservice to people who don't do much or any technical climbing, but lik… View Comment
Dec 9, 2003
I did this route alone last July. Here's my take: Approach: Roach's approach description for Cap. Cr. tr… View Comment
Nov 24, 2003
This climb has great views, great position, and (mostly) great protection. The line up the eastern piece is… View Comment
Nov 24, 2003
I recommend scrambling up the east face of the "fatironette" as an approach to the standard east face route… View Comment
Nov 17, 2003
I thought this route was harder than 5.9, perhaps because I am more comfortable with footwork than hands. W… View Comment
Nov 19, 2003
Good #11 BD stopper before the first bolt, too - there's plenty of pro available to protect the 5.7+ish sta… View Comment
Oct 29, 2003
Like "Smaller Fish" I started to the left of the bolt line, flagrantly ignoring the route description given… View Comment
Oct 26, 2003
This is a great climb on great rock. It's too short, but it's far from being a one-move wonder. The moves,… View Comment
Oct 20, 2003
This is also a pleasant little toprope route, and easy to set up with a long sling and some large stoppers… View Comment
Nov 17, 2004
Class 3 A0. Maybe the only one in the world of the grade. Does that make it 3 stars? Don't have the seco… View Comment
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