Elevation: 6,713 ft
GPS: 39.991, -105.293 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 246,437 total · 1,026/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

The First is a huge Flatiron with many good face routes starting from the bottom to the top of the East side. It's probably the 2nd largest Flatiron overall. The climbing is longer and more varied than the Third with huge flakes, dihedrals, and the rollercoaster ridge. Climbs range from about 4-10 pitches. Virtually every climb is a quality line. There is adventure and there are crowds. A 60m rope is nice for these routes, especially for the rappel.

On a rare winter, you can even find an ice climb here....

Getting There

From Chautauqua Park (W on Baseline, near 9th, off US 36), take the diagonalling "Chautauqua Trail" from the parking lot. At the trail intersection once in the trees, go briefly south (L), then follow signs (R) for the 1st Flatiron to the base. Depending on which route you're going to do, either take the wooden bridge to the base (routes starting near the nadir) or stay on the trail and keep hiking up the hill to the left to another trail that leads to access for climbs that start higher on the East face (e.g. Fandango). Approaches range from 20-40 minutes for the casual walker.

19 Total Climbs

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Location: First Flatiron Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at First Flatiron

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
 71
Southwest Face
Trad
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 43
Atalanta
Trad
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 109
Baker's Way
Trad 6 pitches
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
 130
East Face North Side/1st Flatiron
Trad 5 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 199
North Arete
Trad 5 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 199
Fandango
Trad 5 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
 5
Way of the Ancients
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 1,069
Direct Route
Trad 10 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 50
Fandango Variation
Trad 6 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 22
Butterfly
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 65
Zig Zag
Trad 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 16
Yellow Brick Road
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 22
Kamikaze Overhangs
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 13
Red Slab Variation
Trad 7 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 8
Dumais Direct
Trad 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Southwest Face
 71
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Trad
Atalanta
 43
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad
Baker's Way
 109
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 6 pitches
East Face North Side/1st Fl…
 130
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R Trad 5 pitches
North Arete
 199
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 5 pitches
Fandango
 199
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 5 pitches
Way of the Ancients
 5
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R Trad 3 pitches
Direct Route
 1,069
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad 10 pitches
Fandango Variation
 50
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 6 pitches
Butterfly
 22
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad
Zig Zag
 65
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 5 pitches
Yellow Brick Road
 16
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 6 pitches
Kamikaze Overhangs
 22
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Red Slab Variation
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 7 pitches
Dumais Direct
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 6 pitches
More Classic Climbs in First Flatiron »

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