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Elevation: 6,713 ft 2,046 m
GPS: 39.9908, -105.2928
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 318,801 total · 1,120/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The First is a huge Flatiron with many good face routes starting from the bottom to the top of the East side. It's probably the 2nd largest Flatiron overall. The climbing is longer and more varied than the Third with huge flakes, dihedrals, and the rollercoaster ridge. Climbs range from about 4-10 pitches. Virtually every climb is a quality line. There is adventure and there are crowds. A 60m rope is nice for these routes, especially for the rappel.

On a rare winter, you can even find an ice climb here....

Getting There Suggest change

From Chautauqua Park (W on Baseline, near 9th, off US 36), take the diagonalling "Chautauqua Trail" from the parking lot. At the trail intersection once in the trees, go briefly south (L), then follow signs (R) for the 1st Flatiron to the base. Depending on which route you're going to do, either take the wooden bridge to the base (routes starting near the nadir) or stay on the trail and keep hiking up the hill to the left to another trail that leads to access for climbs that start higher on the East face (e.g. Fandango). Approaches range from 20-40 minutes for the casual walker.

19 Total Climbs

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Location: First Flatiron Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at First Flatiron

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
 111
Southwest Face
Trad
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 54
Atalanta
Trad
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 157
Baker's Way
Trad 6 pitches
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
 154
East Face North Side
Trad 5 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 264
North Arete
Trad 5 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 236
Fandango
Trad 5 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 1,301
Direct Route
Trad 10 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 58
Fandango Variation
Trad 6 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 25
Butterfly
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 8
Way of the Ancients
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 78
Zig Zag
Trad 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 16
Yellow Brick Road
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 15
Red Slab Variation
Trad 7 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 10
Dumais Direct
Trad 6 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
 4
First in Flight
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Southwest Face
 111
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Trad
Atalanta
 54
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad
Baker's Way
 157
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 6 pitches
East Face North Side
 154
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R Trad 5 pitches
North Arete
 264
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 5 pitches
Fandango
 236
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 5 pitches
Direct Route
 1,301
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad 10 pitches
Fandango Variation
 58
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 6 pitches
Butterfly
 25
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad
Way of the Ancients
 8
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad 3 pitches
Zig Zag
 78
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 5 pitches
Yellow Brick Road
 16
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 6 pitches
Red Slab Variation
 15
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 7 pitches
Dumais Direct
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 6 pitches
First in Flight
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad
More Classic Climbs in First Flatiron »

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