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Elevation: 6,713 ft 2,046 m
GPS: 39.9908, -105.2928
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 320,749 total · 1,060/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The First is a huge Flatiron with many good face routes starting from the bottom to the top of the East side. It's probably the 2nd largest Flatiron overall. The climbing is longer and more varied than the Third with huge flakes, dihedrals, and the rollercoaster ridge. Climbs range from about 4-10 pitches. Virtually every climb is a quality line. There is adventure and there are crowds. A 60m rope is nice for these routes, especially for the rappel.

On a rare winter, you can even find an ice climb here....

Getting There Suggest change

Pay attention to the parking fees to avoid getting a ticket and having to pay more money than a parking fee.

From Chautauqua Park (W on Baseline, near 9th, off US 36), take the diagonalling "Chautauqua Trail" from the parking lot. At the trail intersection once in the trees, go briefly south (L), then follow signs (R) for the 1st Flatiron to the base. Depending on which route you're going to do, either take the wooden bridge to the base (routes starting near the nadir) or stay on the trail and keep hiking up the hill to the left to another trail that leads to access for climbs that start higher on the East face (e.g. Fandango). Approaches range from 20-40 minutes for the casual walker.

20 Total Climbs

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Location: First Flatiron Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at First Flatiron

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
 121
Southwest Face
Trad
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 62
Atalanta
Trad
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 176
Baker's Way
Trad 6 pitches
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
 171
East Face North Side
Trad 5 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 286
North Arete
Trad 5 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 250
Fandango
Trad 5 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 1,389
Direct Route
Trad 10 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 58
Fandango Variation
Trad 6 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 28
Butterfly
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 10
Way of the Ancients
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 82
Zig Zag
Trad 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 16
Yellow Brick Road
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 27
Kamikaze Overhangs
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 16
Red Slab Variation
Trad 7 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 10
Dumais Direct
Trad 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Southwest Face
 121
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Trad
Atalanta
 62
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad
Baker's Way
 176
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 6 pitches
East Face North Side
 171
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R Trad 5 pitches
North Arete
 286
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 5 pitches
Fandango
 250
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 5 pitches
Direct Route
 1,389
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad 10 pitches
Fandango Variation
 58
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 6 pitches
Butterfly
 28
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad
Way of the Ancients
 10
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad 3 pitches
Zig Zag
 82
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 5 pitches
Yellow Brick Road
 16
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 6 pitches
Kamikaze Overhangs
 27
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Red Slab Variation
 16
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 7 pitches
Dumais Direct
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 6 pitches
More Classic Climbs in First Flatiron »

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