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The Riviera Rock Climbing
Routes in The Riviera
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Abandonment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Au Natural T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Beach Bum T,S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Birthday Suit T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bosch Blanket Bingo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chouette T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dancing Hippos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Devin's Dihedral T,S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Full Bihedral, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Infestation T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Le Nouveau Riche T,S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Le Nouveau Riche Variation T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Lease Agreement T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Minstrel, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Monte Carlo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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New Lease on Life S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sea Breeze S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Silver Glide S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Splash T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Topless Etiquette S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown Trad Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Zig Zag Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Elevation: | 6,890 ft | 2,100 m |
| GPS: |
40.0034, -105.3959 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 88,326 total · 299/month | |
| Shared By: | Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000 | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2025 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk are closed for raptor nesting
Details
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk are closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
Easy access, southern exposure, and fun, well-bolted, if crowded, sport routes make the Riviera a popular spot on cool, sunny days. There are a few mixed bolts-plus-gear routes and a few trad routes, too. A good place to take less-experienced climbers, with some moderate (5.6 to 5.8) routes as well as some harder (5.9 to 5.11) lines. Most routes have 2-bolt anchors at the top. Bring a 60m rope; a few of the routes need it to lower.
While some might consider it a separate crag, you can continue climbing up past the top of this subarea & continue to the top of the Bihedral. In fact, some route(s) on the Bihedral lie directly above routes on the Riviera.
The routes, from L->R:
A. Dancing Hippos, 7 R, 1p, 180', gear. Connects to Bihedral.
B. Lease Agreement, 10-, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
C. New Lease on Life, 9+ to 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Abandonment, 8, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
E. Sea Breeze, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
F. The Minstrel, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Au Natural, 7, 1p, 50', gear (sadly, retrobolted 1st half). LFD.
above E-G. Just Putin Around, 9 PG-13, 4p, gear.
H. Beach Bum, 9+, 1p, 70', gear & bolt.
I. Devin's Dihedral, 9+ R, gear & bolt.
J. Birthday Suit, 10-, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
K. Silver Glide, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
L. Zig Zag Crack Thingy, 7, 1p, 60', gear.
M. Bosch Blanket Bingo, 9+, 1p, 70', bolts, variations.
N. Topless Etiquette, 8, 1p, 85', bolts & gear.
O1. Le Nouveau Riche Variation, 9+ PG-13, 1p, 85', gear (skipping the bolt).
O2. Le Nouveau Riche, 10 PG-13, 1p, 85', bolts & gear or TR.
P. Chouette, 6, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
Q. Splash, 7, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
R. Unknown Trad Line, 7 PG-13, 1p, 85'.
S. Infestation, 9-, 1p, 60', bolts +/- gear.
T. Monte Carlo, 7, 1p, 40', bolts +/- gear.
While some might consider it a separate crag, you can continue climbing up past the top of this subarea & continue to the top of the Bihedral. In fact, some route(s) on the Bihedral lie directly above routes on the Riviera.
The routes, from L->R:
A. Dancing Hippos, 7 R, 1p, 180', gear. Connects to Bihedral.
B. Lease Agreement, 10-, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
C. New Lease on Life, 9+ to 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Abandonment, 8, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
E. Sea Breeze, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
F. The Minstrel, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Au Natural, 7, 1p, 50', gear (sadly, retrobolted 1st half). LFD.
above E-G. Just Putin Around, 9 PG-13, 4p, gear.
H. Beach Bum, 9+, 1p, 70', gear & bolt.
I. Devin's Dihedral, 9+ R, gear & bolt.
J. Birthday Suit, 10-, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
K. Silver Glide, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
L. Zig Zag Crack Thingy, 7, 1p, 60', gear.
M. Bosch Blanket Bingo, 9+, 1p, 70', bolts, variations.
N. Topless Etiquette, 8, 1p, 85', bolts & gear.
O1. Le Nouveau Riche Variation, 9+ PG-13, 1p, 85', gear (skipping the bolt).
O2. Le Nouveau Riche, 10 PG-13, 1p, 85', bolts & gear or TR.
P. Chouette, 6, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
Q. Splash, 7, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
R. Unknown Trad Line, 7 PG-13, 1p, 85'.
S. Infestation, 9-, 1p, 60', bolts +/- gear.
T. Monte Carlo, 7, 1p, 40', bolts +/- gear.
Getting There
Park at the same place you would for Sherwood Forest (immediately after mile marker 34 on the left), and walk 150 yards west on the road until you see a 3'-tall cement post with "430" on it, just off the road / on the hillside about 30' up off the road on the north side. Hike up the trail next to this post for 5 minutes to reach the Riviera. The trail tops out near the route Le Nouveau Riche. There is another parking area on the S side of the road at a big pullout with a large tree at the end of a guardrail.
Oddities
There is a funky, little Buddha in a shallow cave on the left side of this crag. What is up with that?
Sun Exposure
This is often one of the sunnier and warmer cliffs in Boulder Canyon during the cooler months. Note, near the winter solstice, the sunshine does leave the bottom of this cliff ~1 pm, which can bring a bit of a chill. Still, you can find nice warmth during the earlier hours of the shortest days.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Riviera
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
Weather Averages
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Photos
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