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Routes in The Riviera

Abandonment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Au Natural T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beach Bum T,S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Suit T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bosch Blanket Bingo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chouette T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dancing Hippos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Devin's Dihedral T,S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Infestation T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Le Nouveau Riche T,S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Le Nouveau Riche Variation T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Lease Agreement S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Minstrel, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Monte Carlo S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Lease on Life S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sea Breeze S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Silver Glide S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Splash T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Topless Etiquette S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Trad Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Zig Zag Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 85 ft
FA: Stef Striech and Rob Stanley, 1997
Page Views: 5,380 total, 27/month
Shared By: Kreighton Bieger on May 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Once the farthest right line at the Riviera...now this is probably 4th or 5th route from the right. Identify a high bolt that works up and right over some blocky stuff, then up a slab with horizontal cracks, then finishes up a small headwall onto some choss at the top. High quality granite and nice, easy gear placements make this one safe and well bolted in my opinion.

Eds. Actually, there is another natural line to the left of this route...and now even bolted lines, too.

Protection

Five widely spaced bolts to a good anchor that could easily be reached for toproping. A few small cams and midsize nuts will protect the runouts here. Good lead for the 5.7 or so leader who is just starting to place gear.

Eds. There are now 2 Metolius rap hangers each with 2 links for the anchors.
Dale Haas and I replaced the five protection bolts on this climb and two anchor bolts(shared with Chouette) with 3/8" SS Powers Power-Bolts (AKA 5-piece). We added SS quicklinks and rings to the anchor.

The hardware for this project was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA - safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Jun 18, 2015
Jim Fox
Westminster, CO
  5.6
Jim Fox   Westminster, CO
  5.6
Lead this today. Placed a few pieces of gear for peace of mind but could have done with less (or none). Kind of a weird route but actually pretty fun. I bypassed the "choss" at the top by traversing right on a nice ledge and finishing on the last 2 bolts of Infestation. Fair amount of rope drag but a nicer finish and lowered off Mussey hooks (so we could toprope Infestation).

Not a bad route & long (used almost all of our 60m rope to do it and lower). I'd rate it 5.6 . Really didn't seem like 5.7 to me. Aug 16, 2014
goingUp
over here
  5.7
goingUp   over here
  5.7
Can be done on gear relatively safely. I clipped two bolts, the first and the last, and could have probably done without either. Aug 7, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.7
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.7
Definitely five bolts on this one. Oct 30, 2013
John Tex
Estes
  5.6
John Tex   Estes
  5.6
3rd route from the right now, the second being Infestation (5.9) and Monte Carlo (5.6). Three bolts at the anchors as Greg said that I can confirm worked very well and can be used for a toprope safely.

5 bolts on the way to the anchors with a bit of a runout between the second and the third. Done without a rack pretty safely for a confident climber as the climbing between the runout is easy, much like Chouette to the left. Mar 19, 2013
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
I checked the anchor today. The bolts cannot be tightened, because they are Rawls and will not tighten. They looked good other than the hangers being loose. I added a 3rd bolt to give everyone warm fuzzy feelings. Especially since these are popular beginner routes. May 30, 2012
Joshinator
Longmont, Colorado
Joshinator   Longmont, Colorado
Any word on the anchor situation lately? May 6, 2012
Anchors still seem sketchy/loose/weathered to me. Tons of traffic on this route. Jun 25, 2011
Just went there today, and there are two new bolted routes to the right of Splash. I was there a month ago, and they were not there. So, no longer is Splash the furthermost route to the right. The starts are a little tricky, especially if you stay to the right of the bolt on the route to the right of Splash. If I were to guess, I would say a few 5.9 moves then gets easier on the way up. Oct 30, 2010
J. Fox
Black Hawk, CO
 
J. Fox   Black Hawk, CO
 
I too only found 4 bolts...hmmm? Nov 5, 2007
Mark Griffin
Boulder, CO
Mark Griffin   Boulder, CO
Yeah, the hangers do spin, but the bolts seem to be solid enough. Jun 9, 2007
Scott Edlin
boulder, co
  5.6
Scott Edlin   boulder, co
  5.6
There are enough gear placements that this could probably be led more safely on all gear than on all bolts with no gear. Next time I'm up there I'll try it and see. May 9, 2006
WARNING: The Anchors at the top Spin!! Somebody should check them out, as I'm not an expert...

I already posted this comment on the Chouette (5.6) route, but since these routes share the same anchor, I thought I would post it here too, just in case.

The route itself is really nice for beginners (like myself). If you can do Chouette, you can do this one too. It's not as run out as Chouette, but you can place pro if you feel the need.

-ajs May 17, 2005
Chris Meloche
  5.7
Chris Meloche  
  5.7
This is a nice little route. A great warmup for other climbs at the Riv. I gave it a 5.7, but it's just barely so. It could just as easily get a 5.6. There is a nice variety of moves, and they are all very well protected. I agree with the concensus that a few pieces of gear are helpful if you're not too confident. Nov 20, 2003
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
A fun beginner practice lead with some variety to make you think. You can either run it out a bit between bolts or have fun practicing placing pro inbetween,which is probably a good idea anyways in a couple of spots. Nice play to go if short on time as approach is easy as well. Oct 13, 2003
I put in one pink tricam more or less for the heck of it. Otherwise the bolts (yes, 5), were plenty. Jul 3, 2003
There's definitely 5 bolts on the route, all right where you'd want them. This route is a fun romp up a slab, with beautiful moves. I'd give it two or three stars, personally, but then I just love runout granite slab routes. It was a hoot! Feb 5, 2002
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
I only counted 4 bolts, but there are many places for gear in between the bolts. A decent line for a new leader as the bolts are easily supplemented with gear (#0.75 Camalot and smaller). Anchor at top does not have any rap rings placed on it so watch your rope on this one, or just walk off to the right and walk the 50' to the ground. Nov 15, 2001