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Routes in The Riviera

Abandonment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Au Natural T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beach Bum T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Suit T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bosch Blanket Bingo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chouette T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dancing Hippos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Devin's Dihedral T,S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Infestation T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Le Nouveau Riche T,S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Le Nouveau Riche Variation T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Lease Agreement S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Minstrel, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Monte Carlo S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Lease on Life S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sea Breeze S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Silver Glide S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Splash T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Topless Etiquette S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Trad Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Zig Zag Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: Greg Hand & Ron Olsen, 10/27/2010
Page Views: 2,997 total · 32/month
Shared By: Greg Hand on Oct 27, 2010 with updates from Matt B
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This was named for the 2 wasps seen in a crack at the start. (No wasps were harmed during the ascent).

Begin in a flared dihedral and follow 5 bolts passing a very small pine bush. Some supplemental gear may be needed.

Location

This is on the far right side of cliff, about 30 feet right of Splash. It is just left of a large flake.

Protection

5 bolts plus finger-sized cam before 1st bolt and red Alien size after 2nd bolt.

The anchor is same as for Monte Carlo (route to the right).

The left Mussy Hook has been replaced by Ron and Bruce (4/12/2017 see Monte Carlo), and the anchor is safe.

Photos

Chris Plesko
Westminster, CO
  5.8
Chris Plesko   Westminster, CO
  5.8
If you're short this could be 5.9 and a spicy first clip (we didn't bother with a cam), but if you're 5'10"+, just stem and use your feet and it's pretty easy to get to the jug out left. I practically had a no hands stance below the reach. May 26, 2011
farkas.time
Albuquerque, NM
  5.9
farkas.time   Albuquerque, NM
  5.9
Make sure you don't think this is Chouette, which is not in the Boulder Canyon guide. I managed to convince myself that it was. Oops.

One could just go for the first bolt without placing gear behind the (awkward) left-facing crack, as suggested, just don't fall -- it will be uncomfortable, and the start is technical. A small cam makes this start less scary.

Also, I didn't place a second cam above the 2nd bolt, and felt safe, whatever that's worth. The first 20' is 5.9, the remainder is 5.5-5.7. Jul 15, 2011
dseltzer
Boulder, CO
 
dseltzer   Boulder, CO
 
Hard first move or two, then 5.6-7 or so climbing the rest of the way. Oct 24, 2011
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.8
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.8
FWIW, this had been climbed at least by 2001 if not earlier. Mar 11, 2012
John Tex
Estes
  5.9+
John Tex   Estes
  5.9+
There is some really nice holds at the first clip with one of the harder moves of the route getting to them. If you just stem and find the good feet, it shouldn't be a problem without some additional gear. There is another crimpy crux move later on that is well protected but definitely goes along with the rating in my opinion.

One of the better protected routes on the crag for someone without a trad rack. If you can make the first bolt, then the rest of it is doable without a rack. Don't think the wasp nest made it through the winter. Mar 19, 2013
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Hardest moves are getting off the ground. A wet start and confusion as to which route we were actually on made the crux a little harder than necessary. Probably 5.9 if you climb it right. Pro at the start is recommended if only to keep you from taking your partner down the hill if you fall.... Apr 23, 2013
Jim Fox
Westminster, CO
  5.9
Jim Fox   Westminster, CO
  5.9
First 15-20 feet is really fun. A bit reachy for shorter folks (I'm 5'9"). My son is 6'2" and was able to climb it with a lot less difficulty (and fewer moves).

1st bolt is a little high & placing a piece of pro lower is a good idea (for reason in post above) unless you are confident you won't fall (or stick clip the bolt).

5.9+ for short folks, in my opinion. Jul 26, 2014
Jim Fox
Westminster, CO
  5.9
Jim Fox   Westminster, CO
  5.9
Climbed this on 1st attempt today. Key for shorter folks (I'm 5'9') is to get your feet up high so you can grab the great jug hold to the left. Once I got that hold, it was pretty easy to pull the roof.
I struggled with this climb last time I was here, because the hold is a bit hard to reach, but it was pretty easy today.
5.9 for the roof and some tricky slab above.

Great fun! Sep 27, 2014
Aaron Sefton
  5.9
Aaron Sefton  
  5.9
There's a hidden hold that's BOMBER maybe 3 feet to left and above the 1st bolt. The trick is to find it. Nov 24, 2015
Rob King
Lone Tree
  5.9+
Rob King   Lone Tree
  5.9+
First big move to the bolt is legit on lead. You gotta commit to goin left and up to the jug.

5.10+ on lead because of the first move. If you miss the jug and fall from a blown foot, you're deckin' really hard. 5.9- if you top rope it. Jun 26, 2016
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.8
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.8
Placing gear before the 1st bolt helps limit this risk. Greg Hand suggested this in the Protection section above. Jun 28, 2016
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
 
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
 
Should I just add a bolt? Hahahaha! Jun 28, 2016
Hansen Wendlandt  
  5.9+
The left mussy hook is definitely compromised. Its clip flips right up past the hook. Not much of an issue if you are rapping or TRing, but if anyone is moving left to the next anchors, it seems very possible that the rope would slip out of that left hook. Mar 18, 2017
Matt B
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Matt B   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Left Mussy hook has been replaced (not by me).

The challenge of this route for me came on the slab section just over the first bolt, but I'm also not that great at slab. I enjoyed the route but didn't find it to be very sustained. Once you nail the first two bolts, you're done. Apr 22, 2017

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