Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson and Mark Milligan, 1996
Page Views: 2,823 total · 13/month
Shared By: Walt Wehner on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


88 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is the sixth route from the right, just left of Bosch Blanket Bingo. Climb 20' of easy climbing to the obvious, small overhang with a flared fingercrack in its right side. This route is really fun... for about 10 feet. Then it's back to slab. It is not sustained (but not that easy after the crux either), and worth doing if you're in the area. This is easier for tall folks.

Protection

6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Key, left hand, vulcan hold at the crux took a few rounds to find. Mar 5, 2002
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
Solid 5.11d with no left hand to speak of on the crux pull. Bomber crack for right finger must be used to walk the right foot onto a small vetical stem on narrow vertical face. Crank on right hand hold, shift weight into rock, step up with left foot onto small ledge and reach high for pocket with left hand. Very balancy move favoring taller climbers. The meat is 15' of hard cimbing. Oct 9, 2002
richard magill
  5.11d
richard magill  
  5.11d
From a sampling of this crag, there isn't much here that is too interesting. The 10 feet of tricky climbing on Silver Glide is cool, and definitely one of the area highlights. The crux seems to be legitimate 11+, although this is definitely an easy 11+ route, given that the hard part is pretty short. Feels more like a V3 boulder problem. Jul 16, 2004
ac
ac  
Left anchor bolt-nut is loose. Next party should take a wrench and tighten it.

Cheers, Jun 22, 2005
grega Albrechtsen  
5.11a/b
Fun route. 11a, maybe 11b tops and somewhat bouldery crux. Mar 25, 2006
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
This really is just a one-move climb but the one move is really interesting. I had to think it over quite a while; half the difficulty is in ruling out the obvious alternatives. I also used Leo's "vulcan hold" for the left hand and then did a push with the right to stem the right foot up. After that I was able to stand up and reach the good stuff. Cranking off the finger crack would work, but is much more burly. May 23, 2006
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Agree with 11a. Use good footwork to get up high through the crux. Fun moves and then easy after the crux.

CL Mar 1, 2008
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.11c
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.11c
Ouch. Crimpy left hands through the crux. Ouch. Worth a tick, but do it last to save your tips. Oct 20, 2008
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
At first I thought this was solid 11c, but the second time I climbed it I was able to work out a better sequence in the crux. If you implement good foot work and balance, it's more like 11a/b. Also, my buddy Landon TRed it and found a good mantle variation at the crux to gain the right foot stem. Not sure how hairy that move would be on lead though. After the tricky crux, the grade eases down to very fun 5.10 face climbing. All in all, it's a good climb. Mar 22, 2011
Paul Donald Andrews
Nederland, Co.
 
Paul Donald Andrews   Nederland, Co.
 
TRed this with my son today. He got it clean on 2nd try, I hung once before pulling the moves on my 2nd try. We both enjoyed it a lot. It doesn't ease up all that much after the crux. Mar 29, 2013