Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Pat and Azenda Thompson, 1998
Page Views: 3,855 total · 17/month
Shared By: Walt Wehner on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

161 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details


This is the furthest left route at The Riviera. Climb a short fingercrack (stoppers and small cams helpful) to a 3-bolt face with crystals. It would be high quality if it was twice as long.


3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor, small cams and nuts necessary for bottom 20 feet.


Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
For the length is a very nice line. If only that crack were a bit longer. (like 50 feet or so) Nice hands, just above hand jamming. You must be strict about the top and try to stay in line with the bolts, as the routes on this side of the crag are squeeze jobs. Have fun on this one. Nov 15, 2001
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
The crack is fun and has some great fingerlocks, but is over too quickly. I don't know where you got a hand jam on this route, Jeff! The upper part felt contrived and you can make it easier by not following the bolt line. Oct 28, 2003
Joseph Proulx  
I thought this route was harder than 5.9, perhaps because I am more comfortable with footwork than hands. While the finger locks in the crack are great, the move that gets you to the first bolt is quite tough, as there are no decent footholds and the crack peters out a bit. Maybe I was just off when I was there, but I did it on TR after leading it (with some aid), and still though it was a good deal tougher than other Boulder Canyon 5.9's.

Definitely a worthwhile climb. It's ridiculously easy to place good pro below the bolts. Nov 17, 2003
I thought this was a good example of a 5.9+ . The day we did it I watched two people lead it (including me) and four follow. Everyone fell off! At least once. All the same folks routinely climbed the 10a and 10bs right next to this without a fall. The deal is that the crack sucks you up with great pro (TCUs and stoppers) and then just when you go for what should be a locker hand jam the crack becomes off hand size. Once you figure this out and jam your foot in the crack instead of trying to use the face holds you can yard up and get a thumb forefinger lock in just the right place. Then its 5.9+ until you find that its solid 10 trying to go straight up on off hands and feet that are too high. Sep 5, 2004
Parker, Colorado
DavidHH   Parker, Colorado
Protects very well with a green and/or yellow Alien. Mar 17, 2007
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
Great crack to practice on. We climbed the next climb over to the right then left TR on this climb. I enjoyed this climb a lot but gave it a 1 star b/c the crack is not long enough and the top is too easy for the 10a grade. Aug 27, 2007
Mark Griffin
Boulder, CO
Mark Griffin   Boulder, CO
The fixed cam is gone. Apr 14, 2008
Nick Przybysz
Boulder, CO
Nick Przybysz   Boulder, CO
Got a nut stuck on the top of the crack while I was climbing there on Sun. If you can get it out, you're welcome to it. I tried for about 10 minutes, but it was starting to rain and booming thunder, so I left it. It's wedged in there pretty good. Jul 19, 2010
Robbie Flick
Baltimore, MD
Robbie Flick   Baltimore, MD
Fun route. There is what looks like an incredible foothold out left that would make the route a lot easier - strangely, it is super slick and almost unusable, no idea why. Apr 18, 2011
Great short climb.
I agree if that finger crack were longer I would be great. I wonder how many times I have said that, lol. Buy great finger locks lead to easy face climbing. Gear beta: a red c3 and a #0.4 Camalot is fully enough gear for a guy like me that gets scared on Eldo 5.8. Nov 26, 2011
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
Sweet finger crack and great ring lock to get the crux! Fun staying on the bolt line, working the vertical dike. Despite the length, still worth 3 stars, imo. Feb 26, 2012
Hiro Protagonist
Hiro Protagonist   Colorado
A challenging route for me - finishing the crack in particular. Protected it with a 0.75 and 0.3 Camalot (if you're going to use a single piece, something between that would probably be best to take). The polished foothold someone else mentioned is probably the one thing that makes finishing the crack difficult. My partner stepped on it, but I couldn't for the life of me. Took me many tries to find something to hold onto above the crack - taller people will have an easier time reaching (I'm 5'9").

Plenty of space to dump your gear below the crag and a plethora of places to lay out your rope tarp and stand for belay. Luxurious in this sense. The area is partially shaded, not nearly as exposed as the Upper.

I think this route will be on my future re-do list for a rp. May 15, 2012
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
Gah, why could't the crack be 50' longer?! Overall a fun route with a great variety of climbing styles packed into a short distance. Super safe lead as well, throw a few cams in the crack and go for it! Aug 6, 2013
Dale Haas and I upgraded the anchor bolts on this climb with Fixe SS double ring hangers. Aug 22, 2013
OriginalMikeJohnson   Denver
Climbed this 2/18/17 all bolts and hangers looked great. Fun climb with an early crux - enjoy! Feb 20, 2017
Weston Hamilton
Denver, CO
Weston Hamilton   Denver, CO
One of my first mixed leads. Ended up placing a subpar Metolius TCU and psyched myself out trying to get over it. Finally did and felt that slighty bigger-than-finger crack and had some sweaty fun until I just sent it with better feet. Took a few top rope burns to work out the sequence, and I’d call this an easily protected 10b but only in the crack. The rest is easy unless you make it hard. Aug 10, 2018