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Routes in The Riviera

Abandonment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Au Natural T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beach Bum T,S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Suit T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bosch Blanket Bingo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chouette T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dancing Hippos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Devin's Dihedral T,S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Infestation T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Le Nouveau Riche T,S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Le Nouveau Riche Variation T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Lease Agreement S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Minstrel, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Monte Carlo S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Lease on Life S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sea Breeze S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Silver Glide S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Splash T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Topless Etiquette S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Trad Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Zig Zag Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Pat and Azenda Thompson, 1998
Page Views: 3,646 total, 18/month
Shared By: Walt Wehner on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is the third route from the left. Climb up and right past overlaps between two black streaks. After the fourth bolt, continue straight up (placing a yellow Alien for pro) to a higher anchor, or angle left along a quartz dike to a lower anchor shared with the routes on the left.

Protection

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (shared with the route to the left). The 5.8 leader will probably want to attempt to place gear after the bolts end at half-height (small nuts or yellow Alien).

Photos

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Rob King
Lone Tree
  5.9 R
Rob King   Lone Tree
  5.9 R
Super runout after the 4th bolt. Don't do this without added pro unless you're leading 5.10+. The move to the anchor is awkward on the left and right, and if you fall, it's ohhh about a 40 footer onto slab. Bring small cams and nuts, there are gear placement opportunities. Jun 26, 2016
Having led Au Natural and Abandonment recently, I think the former is a whole number grade harder than the latter. Mar 11, 2014
Rick Vermeil
Erie, CO
  5.7+
Rick Vermeil   Erie, CO
  5.7+
Definitely bring gear for the second half of this. A set of small to medium nuts will work, but TCUs or Aliens would be easier to place. I only used one small nut but would have placed another if I could of found another slot. However, I saw a few good TCU placements in the #2-4 range. The only cam I racked was a BD #0.75, and it did not fit in anything. There is ground fall potential with about 15ft of climbing left to the anchor. The climbing is easy as mentioned on other comments, but I would of been stressing it without gear. I thought the route was fun with sporty layback moves on nice flakes at the bottom four bolts (5.8), then a bit more slabby at the top (5.5-7). There is quartz in the granite for the first 20 feet which makes it a lot more slippery than the rest of the crag. No stars in D'Antonio's book, but pay no attention to that. It is definitely worth climbing! Mar 10, 2014
Back in Colorado two months later. Dale Haas and I put a new hanger on the first bolt and upgraded the anchor bolts with Fixe SS double ring hangers. Aug 22, 2013
The hanger and nut are missing from the first bolt. It looks like a 10mm SS wedge bolt (takes a 10x1.5 SS nut). I would replace it, but I am flying back to California tomorrow.

Until the hanger gets replaced, you can clip the first bolt on the route to the left. Jun 21, 2013
Andrew Shoemaker
Olympia, WA
  5.8- PG13
Andrew Shoemaker   Olympia, WA
  5.8- PG13
Went up this thinking it was pure sport...it's not. First 4 bolts are pretty low on the route and close together then after that it is runout for about 40ft to the anchors. Suprisingly a fun route for a 5.8 but if your not used to runouts with certain deckouts if you slip near the top then don't do this...or place gear. Jun 4, 2011
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Maybe they were "Abandoned". May 4, 2010
JJNS  
I cleaned your draws off these anchors yesterday. If you left them there deliberately, I'm sorry I removed them. If you forgot them I will do my best to get them back to you. Pm me with a description of the draws, and I will make sure you get them back.

thanks

Jason May 4, 2010
DamageVic
Coal Creek Canyon, CO
  5.8
DamageVic   Coal Creek Canyon, CO
  5.8
Did this yesterday- led it clean w/ the beta from this site. Placed a green Alien above the 4th bolt & a black Alien in the flake just a little ways from the anchor (above Lease Agreement/NLOL). Had a great time, fun route! Jul 8, 2009
Randy Carmichael
Boulder, CO
 
Randy Carmichael   Boulder, CO
 
I wouldn't recommend running the top out. There is a thin move near the anchors and a slip would be fatal. Oct 1, 2008
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
This route is fun but rather short. I felt it was a bit harder than Topless Etiquette. The four bolts are probably only 10 feet apart (total), then there is a runout of 30' or so to the anchors. The top part is easier, but you would probably hit the ground if you slipped. For peace of mind I'd recommend a few Aliens (I used a yellow Alien). Oct 28, 2003
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
Microcams will also work well for the section above the bolts. Aug 13, 2003
I can guarantee that there are no manufactered pockets on this route or at the Riviera at all. Mar 26, 2002
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
This route is called 'Abandonment' and is rated 5.8. You can continue up from the 4th bolt to a higher anchor (bring gear if a new leader) or follow the quartz dike up and left to the anchors shared with previous route. Either way a decent route on easy rock. Nov 15, 2001
Two things I noticed about this route. 1. It would easily go with gear for the competent 5.8 leader, 2. At least one very suspicious pocket on the route. Does anyone know about this pocket? Ive climbed in the canyon for 7 years and can count on one hand the number of perfect pockets I've seen and two of them were within 15 minutes at the Riviera.

Otherwise a fun route that will mind bend anyone not used to runouts. Jan 1, 2001