Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Pat Thompson, spring 1998
Page Views: 5,068 total · 23/month
Shared By: Walt Wehner on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

235 Opinions

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This is the [eighth] route from the right. It is a fun line with several variations. It can be done as a 5.8 if you take the easiest line, or a 5.10 if you take the hardest line.

This route is a bit of a squeeze job (stay left of the bolt line or you'll trespass on Topless Etiquette!) in between Topless Etiquette and Silver Glide. Not included in the Rossiter guide.

Climb straight up a face past three bolts. Move up right and reach left to clip the fourth bolt above the lip of a roof. You now have three options:

1. Traverse left to a good crack to surmount the roof (8).
2. Tackle the roof straight on via a finger pocket and a reach up left to the good crack (10b).
3. Climb the roof on the right (9).

Continue up to the second roof at the fifth bolt. You now have two options:

1. Move right around the roof using a groove (8).
2. Tackle the roof directly using thin holds (10b to 10d). The more you stay in line with the fifth bolt, the harder the climbing.

Continue up past a final bolt to the anchor.


6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (shared with Topless Etiquette).


Fairly decent route. I was able to place a few mid-sized cams after the bulge for added security. Jan 1, 2001
5.8 or 5.10d, depending on whether you go around the bulge at mid-height, or go directly over it. First climb outside in 2001! Good to get out. Jan 1, 2001
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
Did this route today, it is a little bit of a squeeze job if you don't follow the bolt line. The move at the 4th bolt seems harder than 5.10 straight up, very reachy, without getting into the crack at left. From here, fire straight over the little overhanging section, again very reachy. (Almost dyno for under 5'7".) A decent line, you could lead the whole crack with trad gear for a decent route as well. Nov 15, 2001
You can lead the crack with gear at about 5.7. This is how I got the anchors in for Bosch Blanket. Mar 26, 2002
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
After the crux this is a little runout, but the section that's runout it only about 5.5, if that. I liked this climb, slabby roof sections that have a mini-Yosemite feeling to them. Sep 6, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I don't like this type of route because it feels contrived to follow the bolt line. If you stay right of the bolts, it's probably not even 5.9, but following them seemed harder than 5.9. An orange Alien can be slotted above the roof, or you can make some easy moves and clip the final bolt. Oct 28, 2003
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
A good climb though found it a bit confusing in knowing what the intent of the exact line is. The move at the fourth bolt is definitely 5.10 something if you don't use the crack. There is a small 2 finger pocket for your left hand to help you over the bulge but your all the holds for your left foot seem to be slanted in the wrong direction just when u need them. If you work your way up high on the bulge and reach for a second into the crack with your left hand, the move becomes much easier. Nov 23, 2003
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
Surprisingly large holds just below and over the fifth bolt. May 7, 2004
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
Great climb! Fun rout the whole way up. I didn't think there was a 10d anywhere in the climb. A 10b at most was at the first overhang and maybe the second. Aug 28, 2007
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
If you are bored with clipping bolts, you can lead this one on trad gear. Gear to #2 cam.... Sep 9, 2007
This didn't really feel like a route. It felt more like part of the Riviera grid-bolt system. Here's a line of bolts; do whatever moves seem interesting to you in the vicinity of these bolts. None of them really form a distinct route. Jun 2, 2010
As a new 5.9 leader, I found this route fun and varied. There are 2 steep portions with some slabby features before the run to the anchors :) Feb 21, 2011
Jonathan Lagoe
Jonathan Lagoe   Boulder
Contrived - and weird bolting. Jan 6, 2013
Roj H.
Roj H.  
It was fun pulling the 2nd roof, but then it gets a bit runout to the last bolt. I would have liked to have a #1 or #2 Camalot. May 5, 2014
Jim Fox
Westminster, CO
Jim Fox   Westminster, CO
Climbed this today. Really fun route. I found the start to be the hardest part, but I did the 5.9 variation at the roof. It would be much easier to move a few feet left at the start, but I went straight up to 1st bolt, & it was fun.
Nice, sustained climb with good holds when you really need them.
I'd say 5.8+ is about right. I'll probably do the roof directly if I climb it again-might be more fun. Sep 27, 2014
Dirk Diggler
Boulder, Colorado
Dirk Diggler   Boulder, Colorado
Being taller helps a lot if you go directly over the roof at the crux. I'd say 5.9ish. Dec 21, 2014
Larry Shaw
Boulder, CO
Larry Shaw   Boulder, CO
Belly to the bolts seems contrived. 5.9 or so through the path of least resistance keeping the bolts in arms reach. Fun movement and worth doing. Nov 18, 2018