Type: Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Pat Thompson, spring 1998
Page Views: 5,556 total · 23/month
Shared By: Walt Wehner on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

This is the [eighth] route from the right. It is a fun line with several variations. It can be done as a 5.8 if you take the easiest line, or a 5.10 if you take the hardest line.

This route is a bit of a squeeze job (stay left of the bolt line or you'll trespass on Topless Etiquette!) in between Topless Etiquette and Silver Glide. Not included in the Rossiter guide.

Climb straight up a face past three bolts. Move up right and reach left to clip the fourth bolt above the lip of a roof. You now have three options:

1. Traverse left to a good crack to surmount the roof (8).
2. Tackle the roof straight on via a finger pocket and a reach up left to the good crack (10b).
3. Climb the roof on the right (9).

Continue up to the second roof at the fifth bolt. You now have two options:

1. Move right around the roof using a groove (8).
2. Tackle the roof directly using thin holds (10b to 10d). The more you stay in line with the fifth bolt, the harder the climbing.

Continue up past a final bolt to the anchor.

Protection

6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (shared with Topless Etiquette).

Photos