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Routes in The Riviera

Abandonment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Au Natural T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beach Bum T,S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Suit T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bosch Blanket Bingo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chouette T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dancing Hippos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Devin's Dihedral T,S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Infestation T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Le Nouveau Riche T,S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Le Nouveau Riche Variation T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Lease Agreement S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Minstrel, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Monte Carlo S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Lease on Life S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sea Breeze S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Silver Glide S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Splash T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Topless Etiquette S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Trad Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Zig Zag Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: George Watson and Steve Ilg, 1987
Page Views: 3,059 total, 15/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Climb the black-washed, right-leaning corner right of Au Natural. Very sketchy small pro going up the corner. Near the top of the corner, clip a bolt on the left wall. Continue straight up, or step right and climb a slab to the anchor.

Fun stemming and laybacking up the corner, and thin slab climbing at the top. A good route. Can toprope this route after leading Au Natural.

Protection

1 bolt (retrobolted with permission?) plus some small-to-medium gear should get you to the anchor.

Photos

Tyler Kempney
Boulder, CO
 
Tyler Kempney   Boulder, CO
 
Great route! If only if it was 100 ft longer. I led it and felt really confident in the gear, (didn't clip the bolt) using a couple small cams and a nut. The gear I used: 0.4 C4, #7 DMM offset nut, 0.3/0.4 X4 offset, 0.1/0.2 X4 offset, 0.1 X4, and 0.75 C4.
The 0.1 X4 was placed at bolt height, in a crystal pod, around the right arete. Instead of the 0.1 X4, I wish I had another 0.1/0.2 X4 offset or TCU. This placement was difficult to clean.
If you feel great about your gear, skip the bolt. If not, don't be a fool, just clip it. Nov 25, 2015
Evan Riley
San Francisco, CA
  5.9 PG13
Evan Riley   San Francisco, CA
  5.9 PG13
This route can be zipped up with a blue/purple MC, a #0.75 C4 out left and the bolt. Best route at the crag. Jul 7, 2013
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
To easily top rope this without doing the sketchy lead and if you can't climb 5.10 (the climb to the right that shares the same anchor) is to do Bosch Blanket trailing a second rope, clip into the anchors of Bosch and continue leading a few more feet over to the next anchor to your left (easy traverse, but don't fall because of course potential for a little swing). Clip in again of course to that anchor as you set up the top rope and then go back to the first anchors and lower.

Maybe this is obvious but just for your info.

Eeks, it was ten years ago when I first commented on this route. May 19, 2013
Jim C.
Denver, CO
Jim C.   Denver, CO
More gear beta: there is a small horizontal nut placement around the rounded (right) corner just before the last committing moves out of the dihedral. Oct 22, 2011
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.9 PG13
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.9 PG13
I found this climb to be varied and thought provoking, bolt or not. Definitely bring some small cams along, maybe a couple of green c3s (save one for after the bolt). I decided from the ground to decide whether to clip the bolt when I got there. Due to the flaring nature of the crack, protection was somewhat dubious and quite a bit down from the bolt, which meant I thought better to clip the bolt and wuss out than break my legs in a nasty fall (or worse!). I encourage you to make the same evaluation and climb it in whatever manner makes you happiest. I will say that every person that seconded this route after me raved about it, and that the bolt did make for a good directional to keep them safe. IMO, best route at the crag. Aug 8, 2011
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.9
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.9
Fun and safe with the bolt, but I wouldn't recommend it to a budding 5.9 trad leader. Oct 20, 2008
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Personally I thought it was a fun route and one of the better routes at the crag. Thoughtful moves required and extra spicy for the leader. Even more fun in 40 degree weather with numb fingers. Not to be missed if at the crag. Rossiter gives this route a star and a 5.9+ rating. Nov 23, 2003
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
There's a microcam in a tiny horizontal around to the right of the rounded arete before you get to the bolt. I remember being gripped just getting to the bolt. Nov 4, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
I did it without the bolt and you are right, it is more interesting. I carried a handful of RPs and offsets and still didn't get a good piece in until after the crux. It's more or less a S/VS 5.9 climb. My previous comment was made without the knowledge that the retrobolting was by permission fo the FA party (whomever you are), although I don't necessarily endorse it. The info that the FA party was in consent came from an anonymous source here...So who did the FA? Nov 4, 2003
History: I was pointed to this by Richard Rossiter a good while back. I did the first lead sans bolt with Steve Ilg as my second. Try it sometime without the bolt, which was added with my permission by Jon Grayson, it is even more thoughtful. The route was originally named Devin's Dihedral. I have no idea why it was renamed. Nov 3, 2003
This is a great climb on great rock. It's too short, but it's far from being a one-move wonder. The moves, like the gear placements, require some thought. Also, both the moves and the gear can feel a little insecure. However the stances are good enough that you have plenty of time to think through your gear placements and moves, so it feels pretty safe.

I used only small stoppers through the crux, as I didn't see anywhere to get in a cam. Maybe a micro cam in the dihedral - but I don't have any. Oct 26, 2003
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9+ R
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9+ R
This is one of the nicer routes on the Riviera. Neat laybacking and stemming with two different ways to do the finish. Aug 4, 2002
I liked this climb. It's possible to layback part of the dihedral, both feet on right wall, fingers in seam/crack. When the seam runs out you can move out right on sketchy friction. May 6, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
It's short, but somewhat fun. I'd tell people it was fun and if they got somehow stranded at this bolt-infested crag that it is worth the bother. 1-star, and a lot better than many of the other routes there. Too bad it was retro-bolted. May 1, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.9+ PG13
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.9+ PG13
Deserves a star. It is oddly reminscent of the 2nd pitch of Where Eagles Dare. Offset cams are not required. It is not R rated with the bolt. Mar 22, 2002
I agree with the comment above. Though short, the balancy crux was fun and exciting. I was able to place a #1 and #2 Camalot on long slings before the lone bolt, then ran it out to the anchors on fairly easy rock. Rossiter rates it a 9+. Jan 1, 2001
I have to agree with Matt. I really enjoyed this route, having done many of the routes at the Riviera. It also offers the best placement for the yellow/red offset Alien Ive gotten yet! Remember, you're not in Eldo here, the climbs are short, but this was classic Canyon stemming and slab moves in my opinion. Jan 1, 2001
I thought this was a quite fun route....5.6 climbing with very thoughtful pro (use slings) to a steep and slick dihedral with a seam (no pro) and a perfect bolt on the left wall to protect this balancy crux. Above the bolt is sustained 5.8 climbing for ~15 feet until a perfect Alien placement...eases off to 2 bolt belay. This exciting and fun pitch. Jan 1, 2001