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Routes in The Riviera

Abandonment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Au Natural T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beach Bum T,S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Suit T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bosch Blanket Bingo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chouette T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dancing Hippos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Devin's Dihedral T,S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Infestation T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Le Nouveau Riche T,S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Le Nouveau Riche Variation T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Lease Agreement S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Minstrel, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Monte Carlo S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Lease on Life S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sea Breeze S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Silver Glide S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Splash T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Topless Etiquette S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Trad Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Zig Zag Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 85 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Steve Ilg, 1987
Page Views: 3,885 total, 19/month
Shared By: Andrew Wellman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is the [fifth] route from the right. This route is just to the right of Topless Etiquette. It is interesting, because it's only got three bolts in about 60-70 feet of climbing. I think this gives the route its character. It's a really slabby route that requires good balance and footwork, and it's quite runout. There is deckout potential if you fell off of easy moves. The three bolts are at the only three places you really need them, and not everywhere in between, just for the sake of having a bolt every four feet. Be confident at the grade and style of climbing.

The crux comes at the second and third bolts, with sustained thin slab climbing up a right-facing corner.

You can toprope this route after leading Topless Etiquette to the higher anchor. Place a directional runner on the top bolt if you do this.

Protection

Three bolts plus small-to-medium gear. 2-bolt anchor.
Nathaniel Dray
Fort Collins
  5.10b/c
Nathaniel Dray   Fort Collins
  5.10b/c
Climbed this today. Very fun climb! However, I only saw one bolt (at the crux), plus two at the anchors. The climb was perfectly safe using gear IMO but is a trad climb, not a sport climb. Oct 24, 2017
Brad Schildt
Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Brad Schildt   Boulder, CO
  5.10d
I think the wide disparity on grading for this climb is due to how it is climbed. If you do not move left or right it is hard. The more you wander, the easier it gets. Nov 17, 2015
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.10d PG13
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.10d PG13
5.10a for this route in the Boulder Canyon guide is presumably a misprint, as this is much harder other 10a routes in this area - there are several Pex Hill 5c moves between bolts 2 & 3! Oct 10, 2015
Dale Haas and I replaced the four bolts on this climb with 3/8" SS Powers Power-Bolts (AKA 5-piece). Most people only clip the first three bolts when doing this route. The fourth bolt is about 20 feet up and slightly left of the anchor shared by Chouette and Splash.

The hardware for this project was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA - safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Jun 16, 2015
damonachey
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10d PG13
damonachey   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10d PG13
Wow, that 'second' bolt is a heck of a stretch if you're short. At 5'4", it's a very heady clip. Jun 14, 2014
JulianG  
A little surface rust, but the bolts are still good. The route is harder than the guidebook suggested. Maybe, the bolting and the grade 10a was right in 1987. Oct 28, 2013
How rusted is "very rusted"? Some pics would help. I've replaced quite a few bolts & hangers lately and although they were rusted on the surface, the underside of the wedge bolt nut, or Rawl bolt were just fine. May 17, 2013
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Climbed this route the other week. All bolts are very rusted (bolts, hangers are fine). I placed a single set of Aliens on the climb to mitigate the danger of a bolt failing. Hope someone replaces them sooner or later. May 17, 2013
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.10b/c PG13
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.10b/c PG13
Awesome route, one of the best at the Riviera! Be wary of the guidebook description though, "5.10a bolts and a few small pieces" leaves out quite a few details. The route is very run out in places, but this is over easy rock and makes the climb quite fun. The harder spots (more like 10b/c) are well protected. Why can't there be more like this in Boulder Canyon?? Had to laugh after looking over from the second bolt and seeing the guy on the next route over clipping bolt #6....

Load up the small gear for this climb, I didn't use anything larger than a yellow Alien and found a small brassie to be oh so nice when otherwise facing a possible groundfall clipping the second bolt. Enjoy!! Apr 21, 2013
I think it's worth noting that the protection bolts are showing some wear. All three had significant rust, and the first had a loose hanger. You can top rope this route after climbing the 5.8 route to the left using the third bolt as a directional. Jun 14, 2012
Paul Donald Andrews
Nederland, Co.
 
Paul Donald Andrews   Nederland, Co.
 
Not the best route at the Riv. The latest guidebook downgrades it to 10a. Glad to see the majority agree this climb is 10b/c, maybe even d at the final bolt. 10a moves at the first bolt, then runout, easy to the second. I got in a couple of small pieces to protect the step out to reach the second bolt, then it's sustained 5 or 6 moves up to and past 3rd bolt. Tough clip hanging off a right hand crimp. Runout to the anchors was no problem. Jun 18, 2011
The thin moves from the 2nd to 3rd bolt definitely make this a great 10b. Top roping from the anchors gives these crux moves a bit of a fun pendulum swing potential. Jul 7, 2010
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b PG13
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b PG13
Best climb on the wall IMO. Bolts and gear are where you need them. Small TCUs will get you to the first bolt. I placed an RP off left before getting to the 2nd bolt, and I placed a #2 Camalot as a directional for my second above the last bolt. 10b felt correct. Oct 20, 2008
dbyte
Carbondale, CO
  5.10d PG13
dbyte   Carbondale, CO
  5.10d PG13
Great old-school line w/ very thoughtful moves. I felt going direct between @ last 2 bolts to be the definite crux & 5.10d. Jul 14, 2008
Aeon Aki

  5.10c/d PG13
Aeon Aki    
  5.10c/d PG13
The slabby section after the second bolt felt nearly as difficult as Sea Breeze. Sep 21, 2006
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
In IMHO, the only 5.10 part was maybe one or two moves getting past the first bolt. After that smooth sailing. Still worth doing. Dec 24, 2005
ac
 
ac  
 
This route is as it should be. It is perfectly bolted. Feb 28, 2005
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Fun route that definitely keeps you on your toes. Compared to TE, it looks way runout, but it is true the bolts are just where you need 'em. Leo's advice on gear is good, I managed to place 2 stoppers, 2 Aliens and the #1 Camalot (after the last bolt). The only place that is runout is after the first bolt, but it is surprisingly easy there. Oct 28, 2003
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
This is a great route. A few Aliens and a #1 Camalot make it quite reasonable for the competent leader. One of the best routes of its grade in the canyon. Footwork is key. Mar 5, 2002
This route is not over-bolted like the rest of the routes at this area which makes it much more exciting. The bolts are at the places where they are needed. Someone went crazy with their drill at the Riviera (sport Park??). That aside, this route is worth climbing. Oct 20, 2001