Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Riviera

Abandonment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Au Natural T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beach Bum T,S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Suit T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bosch Blanket Bingo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chouette T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dancing Hippos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Devin's Dihedral T,S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Infestation T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Le Nouveau Riche T,S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Le Nouveau Riche Variation T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Lease Agreement S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Minstrel, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Monte Carlo S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Lease on Life S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sea Breeze S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Silver Glide S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Splash T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Topless Etiquette S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Trad Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Zig Zag Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Stef Striech and Rob Stanley, 1997
Page Views: 7,173 total, 35/month
Shared By: Michael Walker on Mar 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


159 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is the second route from the right. This route is great for morning sunshine. It also has fine granite and varied climbing making this a pleasant cruise. No drama on gear, no drama on lead. A good warm-up.

Start by climbing up the left side of a large flake via a wide crack. Gain a comfortable stance on top of the flake and then follow two bolts across the face via nice cracks to gain a left-facing corner that angles up to the right. Follow another crack that angles left at a break in the corner. Follow this crack to a steep face and then past two more bolts to the right to gain the anchor for Splash. Rap 80' to the ground.

This route has a Dream Canyon-esque feel with its fine granite and mixed gear. I don't know why, but I like this route; maybe because it's nice and long, you can actually slot a nut or two, and it's not right in the thick of things. In French the name can be translated as 'splendid' or 'swell'. I concur.

Protection

Mixed bag: small rack; plan for the obvious wide crack at the start (nice big hex slots in there) and thin cracks (medium stoppers, smaller cams). 4 QDs for bolts. Shares two bolt anchor with Splash.

Eds. There are now 2 Metolius rap hangers each with 2 links for the anchors. Addendum: someone added links to the Metolius rap hangers.
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.6
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.6
I placed two mid-sized nuts between the second and third bolts. I brought cams, but I did not use them. Oct 30, 2013
farkas.time
Albuquerque, NM
  5.7
farkas.time   Albuquerque, NM
  5.7
Excellent climb. I gave this one 5.7. Definitely an easy-moderate but some difficult movement on small holds in places. Not a cake walk.

Bring a #0.5 Camalot for the start and some small nuts for the mid-section. Alternatively, if you're solid at 5.6, don't bother with trad gear -- these spots are on the easy side for this climb. Jun 10, 2013
John Tex
Estes
  5.6
John Tex   Estes
  5.6
Did it today with 4 bolts and a 3 bolt anchor. Don't think it's necessary to use all three as they all seemed sturdy to me. Led without any gear but quickdraws and had about a 25 foot runout between the second and third bolt. Climbing between the second and third was some of the easier climbing on the route.

Had someone toprope after me and no problem with the anchors. Definitely had a 3rd bolt added to the anchors so there shouldn't be any more fuss about them. Mar 19, 2013
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
I checked the anchor today. The bolts cannot be tightened, because they are Rawls and will not tighten. They looked good other than the hangers being loose. I added a 3rd bolt to give everyone warm fuzzy feelings. Especially since these are popular beginner routes. May 30, 2012
Joshinator
Longmont, Colorado
Joshinator   Longmont, Colorado
Anchors are still a bit loose and spinning. Top roped on 'em nonetheless. They're probably okay, but someone should think about replacing them. This route would be really safe with a set of nuts. May 16, 2012
Anchors still seem sketchy/loose/weathered to me. Didn't let my belayer top-rope it. Plus, it sees tons of traffic.

P.S. - I lead 10 and still placed two cams. Route didn't seem that easy to me. Jun 25, 2011
Chris Plesko
Westminster, CO
  5.6
Chris Plesko   Westminster, CO
  5.6
No fixed gear but the bolts. May 22, 2011
Derek W  
FYI, there is a fixed nut about halfway between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. I didn't work on getting it out too much so I'm not so certain as to the "fixed" nature of it, but it does fix the small run out between the bolts. I led this as sport only (with the addition of that fixed nut) and it felt reasonably well protected. Aug 2, 2010
Chris Plesko
Westminster, CO
  5.6
Chris Plesko   Westminster, CO
  5.6
This is a fine route for a beginning trad leader. There are feet all over the place so rests are plentiful. I had a friend do her first lead here today. I preplaced gear so she could just clip and this thing can be sewn up. The 4 bolts are just an extra bonus to me. Plus I find the movement much more fun and interesting than Splash to the right. Jun 6, 2010
DamageVic
Coal Creek Canyon, CO
 
DamageVic   Coal Creek Canyon, CO
 
Climbed yesterday- fun, easy route that takes more gear than you might think. The hanger on the 2nd or 3rd bolt was loose, I tightened the nut as much as I could by hand...a wrench would be in order at some point in the near future. The anchors seemed solid though. Jul 15, 2009
J. Fox
Black Hawk, CO
 
J. Fox   Black Hawk, CO
 
Climbed it today 11/4/07 and the anchor hangers still spin, but the bolts seem solid. The second bolt on the route is loose as well. I tightened it as best I could with my fingers, but someone with a wrench may want to tighten it more. Nov 4, 2007
WARNING: Loose Anchors!!

First and foremost, both anchors at the top of this route are loose and spinning a bit. I am no expert, but I'm pretty sure that's not good. Are there people that monitor routes around here? I'm just starting to get outside, so I don't really know what to do besides report the loose anchors...

Anyhow, as someone who is a moderate sport leader (5.9 ish) and just beginning to lead Trad, I thought this was a great route to practice placing gear on. I placed a Wild Country Rock #7 and a 0.5 Tricam (finger size pro) on two different cracks above the 2nd bolt. The cracks are not very far away from the 2nd bolt, so I fell on my gear (on purpose) in order to evaluate my placements better. I would not be a big fan of the runout between the 2nd and 3rd bolts if I did not have pro. Then again, I am a beginner.

-ajs May 17, 2005
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
A fun route. If you are uncomfortable with the runout a couple of smaller cams should be adequate for the nice crack (which u can't see from the base). This route shares the same anchors as Splash to the right which is not really the best as it not in a direct line so be prepared for some possible swings. Mar 6, 2005
James Garnett
Bellingham, WA
 
James Garnett   Bellingham, WA
 
Did this in the morning before work; it's just about right for that kind of climb. Short and unsustained, yes, but with some pleasing moves nonetheless. I'll second (or third?) the notion that Aliens and a few stoppers will do the trick for pro here... wear a helmet, though. People wandering around above you will be knocking stuff down. May 28, 2004
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
Even for a route that's "only" 5.6, I was glad I brought along a couple of pieces of small gear for the section between the first two bolts and the last two bolts. Sep 6, 2003
What a great route for someone learning how to place gear. The few bolts would give that feeling of extra security to a new leader, but there are ample straightforward gear placements on this route and its neightboor, Splash. Aug 1, 2003
Unless 5.6 or 5,7 is your limit, you'll only "need" one piece and maybe not even that. Something finger-crack-sized will be fine. Jul 3, 2003
Tonya Clement
Boulder, CO
Tonya Clement   Boulder, CO
Great little "beginning of the season" route. I found I placed about three extra pieces (a small cam, an Alien and a nut) here and there just for the added confidence. Why not, as it is good practice.

This is a great place to come if you don't have a lot of time and you wanna get in a quick pitch or two. If this route doesn't challenge you, jump on Splash directly to the right. May 27, 2003
As a side to my comment above: I am still a beginning trad leader, so despite the bolts and level of climbing, I still have issues with protecting my climb. I do this for two reasons: 1) I want to make sure I am secure, and 2) I like practicing gear placements while on an easier route. After looking a various guidebooks and critiquing my climb there was not as much need for gear. But, a good route to practice placin' it nonetheless. Oct 26, 2002
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
 
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
 
There's 4 bolts, why is so much pro needed? It's only a 5.6! The runout part is a staircase, just don't climb it when it's wet out.This would be a great route for teaching people a trad for all the same reasons. Sep 6, 2002
I agree with Michael about this route. I am almost certain I started it wrong, but that just made i tlonger and more interesting. Bring a bunch of draws, probably more than you think you'll need. A nice view of Boulder Canyon from the belay. A 60m rope will easily get you to the bottom. I recommend some aliens and some smaller nuts, but don't take my word for it. Aug 29, 2002