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Routes in The Riviera

Abandonment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Au Natural T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beach Bum T,S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Suit T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bosch Blanket Bingo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chouette T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dancing Hippos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Devin's Dihedral T,S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Infestation T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Le Nouveau Riche T,S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Le Nouveau Riche Variation T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Lease Agreement S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Minstrel, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Monte Carlo S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Lease on Life S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sea Breeze S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Silver Glide S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Splash T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Topless Etiquette S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Trad Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Zig Zag Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Dan Hare and Susan Simpson, 1995
Page Views: 8,936 total, 43/month
Shared By: Walt Wehner on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Fourth route from the right. This is probably the best route at the Riviera, at least in terms of sustained quality. Fun and reasonably long. Climbs overlaps and jugs up a slabby wall just right of a small overhanging section (Bosch Blanket Bingo).

Near the top, move left to the anchor atop Bosch Blanket Bingo, or continue straight up to a higher anchor (bring a #.75 or #1 Camalot to protect the move to the anchor if you do this finish).

Protection

6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Bring a #0.75 or #1 Camalot (and a 60m rope) for the straight-up finish.
OriginalMikeJohnson
Denver
  5.8
OriginalMikeJohnson   Denver
  5.8
I climbed this 2/18/17 & I'm 5'8". 5.8 is true to the grade and a very fun lead. Though the first bolt is high off the ground, it's very easy to get to. If you stay left, below the bolt, you can comfortably stand and clip it. Again, I'm 5'8", but at that stance, the bolt was just above head high. Fun climb, maybe a bit over bolted but great for the grade. If you're new to 5.8, do this climb, it's a good one. Feb 20, 2017
lonnie
lafayette, co
lonnie   lafayette, co
I am a very new leader and also very short (5'3"). I tried to lead this route for the first time but could not figure out moves to get comfortable clipping the first bolt. Have other short leaders had this problem, or did I just miss it? I tried coming straight up from the bottom...and then tried to go to the left of the line and traverse in...unsuccessfully. Thanks. Nov 1, 2016
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Rob, gear will help limit the runout at the top, as suggested in the Protection section above. Jun 28, 2016
Rob King
Lone Tree
  5.9- R
Rob King   Lone Tree
  5.9- R
The top 20ft is all run out but prob 5.6. A "no fall zone". I would say a 5.9+ lead because of the slabby feet. Jun 26, 2016
Jim Fox
Westminster, CO
  5.8-
Jim Fox   Westminster, CO
  5.8-
Lead this today. Really pretty fun, but like some other routes at this crag, the line is a little indistinct. As others have said, no obvious crux but pretty sustained with a few nice rests.

I'd call this "old school" 5.7 or modern 5.8. Sep 27, 2014
Fun w/ some high feet. Feb 21, 2011
DamageVic
Coal Creek Canyon, CO
 
DamageVic   Coal Creek Canyon, CO
 
Really enjoyed this route yesterday- All the bolts/hangers seemed fine to me. There's a surprisingly good crimper for the L hand just before the 4th(?) bolt. Fun! Jul 15, 2009
Scott Edlin
boulder, co
 
Scott Edlin   boulder, co
 
The bolts are fine. Weird but fun route. May 9, 2006
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
Fun route that is fairly consistently good climbing. From the anchors, it is also possible to traverse left over the anchors for Devin's Dihedral enabling you to set up a top rope for that route. (As of today, the third hanger was spinning but the bolt looked good). Dec 24, 2005
Dear AC,

Regarding the "loose bolts" on Topless Etiquette:Is the actual bolt spinning or merely the hanger? Spinning hangers are common and all that is generally required is an easy turn of the wrench. Spinning hangers are usually not dangerous unless the bolt has come dangerously unthreaded. If the bolt itself is spinning, it should be replaced. Nov 8, 2005
WARNING: The 3rd Bolt from the bottom is loose and spinning!! Is there anyone out there who monitors these routes? I don't know how to replace the bolts, but I thought someone should know...

Loose bolt aside, this is a really fun moderate route. Good moves the whole way, with good protection. It's just as easy to use the lower set of anchors as it is to use the upper set. Watch out for the wet spot near the 3rd bolt.

-ajs May 17, 2005
richard magill
  5.8+
richard magill  
  5.8+
Excellent 5.8 sport route - fun and continuous. Jul 16, 2004
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
This is a nice little route. I counted six bolts today though; the last bolt is maybe two or three feet away from the next-to-last. Is that a new bolt? Definitely felt natural to just head over to the anchors to the left, rather than straight up through the blocky section. Sep 6, 2003
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
This route is quite nice and continuous, not a very defined crux as there are harder sections for shorter/taller folks. A good route to practice footwork, especially for newbies to moderate slab routes. I had fun on this one and only wish it could be longer. Just as easy to use the anchors to the left instead of going through the blocky quartzite ridge. Nov 15, 2001