Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Susan Simpson and Dan Hare, 1995
Page Views: 2,328 total · 11/month
Shared By: Walt Wehner on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


51 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Start between Devin's Dihedral and Silver Glide. Make a steep face move past a bolt, then a difficult step up and right (or a mantle) to a narrow ledge (#1 or #2 Camalot for pro). Climb up and right, joining Silver Glide, past four more bolts to the anchor.

This climb can also be toproped after leading Au Natural.

Protection

5 bolts plus #1 or #2 Camalot.

Photos

- No Photos -
For those who can't make it up Silver Glide (that's me), this is actually quite a good route. While the book shows the route going around the arete to get to the second bolt, it's possible to go straight up the lower face and do a nice and rather balancy mantle off the obvious shelf. Apr 13, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Hmmm. I went straight up the right side, not knowing what route was what until after I'd done them. I placed a few tricams in the crack on the arete between the first and second bolts to do this route, and was glad to have them for what I perceived to be the crux. May 1, 2002
This is fun, tricky, and thoughtful for a few moves, especially trying to mantle onto that first ledge. Yes, it is a bit crammed in, but it does not deserve the "Bomb" rating.

A #2 Camalot protects between the first and second bolt; probably nice to use a shoulder-length sling to avoid rope drag. Sep 26, 2003
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Ditto, better than a bomb. Worth a run if you're there. Sep 29, 2003
ac
ac  
Left anchor bolt-nut is loose. Next party should take a wrench and tighten it.

Cheers, Jun 22, 2005
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.10d
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.10d
If manufactured holds are your cup of tea, this will be right up your alley. Aug 13, 2009
I found that a few Aliens (green and yellow is what I used) kept this a little safer. There is a tricky move after the first bolt before you can get the 2" cam in. The yellow Alien protected this nicely. The mantle up to the second bolt is pretty tricky. The climbing after this is interesting enough, but the bolt job is pretty poor. They're all good bolts, and they're plenty close, but their placement is pretty random.

I didn't notice the manufactured holds, but I wasn't looking that close. Wouldn't surprise me. Jun 2, 2010
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
  5.10-
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
  5.10-
Better than advertised. I think that Percious may not have gotten his route right given the 10d rating and the manufactured hold comment. A couple of cams for the bottom and the crack after the 1st bolt make this a little less sporty. Oct 31, 2011
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
 
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
 
Another option is to continue straight up the arete rather than cutting right to Silver Glide. A bit runout And more like 11a this way. Feb 26, 2016