Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,053 total · 18/month
Shared By: Warren Teissier on Oct 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

From the North side of the Fatiron, climb the notch between the flatironette and the base of the Fatiron. Follow left leaning strata for 20 feet to the base of a crack that divides the East face.

P1: During the first pitch this crack is shallow and provides little protection. The easier route up the face follows the right side of the crack sometimes wandering as far as 10-20 feet to the right. Climbing the left side is 5.6. Climb past a bulge and set up a belay at a tree in the crack.

P2: Continue up the right side of the crack (now protectable). Overcome another bulge and continue P3 to the top on now much easier terrain.

Once you reach the summit of the East Piece downclimb South West for 100 feet and rappel 50 feet Southwest from a tree, down to the slabs of the second piece of the Fatiron.

The Western piece of the Fatiron is much easier, we chose to simulclimb it. Climb the center of the face and wander left after reaching a huge ledge. After two pitches worth you should reach the summit. The views of the Maiden and its north face route are awesome from here....

Downclimb Northwest for 10 feet and set up a 40 foot rappel from a tree. Pay attention not to be impaled by a dead tree that lies in wait as you rappel off the overhang.

Protection Suggest change

A light rack and long slings to wrap around trees.

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