Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Pat Ament, Paul Mayrose, 1964
Page Views: 26,995 total · 100/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2023 Details
Access Issue: Bitty Buttress reoped 4/15/22 Details


This is a great line up the exposed and interesting buttress.

P1. Start at the low point by a fallen tree, and head straight up the crack systems. The exact route is probably the line of least resistance, but many variations are possible. This is the longest pitch and the best of the three. Belay on a big ledge.

P2. Take the corner to the right, and crank up the large dihedral.

P3. Continue up the right-facing dihedral. The technical crux occurs after #2 Friend placement. This is your last placement for the next 15 feet. Move up through the thin, balancy crux, and finish left on a large ramp.

It is another Ament classic.

Per BrokenChairs 88: descent (from P3): walk West to North towards East Blob Rock eventually working your way to the top of Bitty Buttress. Pick up the faint climber's path that starts heading down the gully between Bitty and East Blob. The trail will work its way SW back towards the start of Bitty Buttress. The gully is not super obvious until you're on it, but it is NOT the gully between Bitty  Buttress and East Blob. If you need to downclimb, you're in the wrong spot.


A standard rack.

Lethal block perched on the route!

Per Heather Thorne: there is a lethal block perched at the top of Bitty Buttress route. After going through the roof, just to the right of the route on a small ledge just before you top out, there's a large, flat, oval-shaped boulder (about the size of 2 microwaves put together) that hangs halfway off the edge, and rocks when you touch it. I gingerly climbed up and left of it, but it's only a matter of time before someone actually pulls on it and it crashes down on / to the right of the route. BEWARE!

A picture/video here: photos.app.goo.gl/LV9FBQC3u….