Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Pat Ament, Paul Mayrose, 1964
Page Views: 28,250 total · 99/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Bitty Buttress closure 2/1/24 DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is a great line up the exposed and interesting buttress.

P1. Start at the low point by a fallen tree, and head straight up the crack systems. The exact route is probably the line of least resistance, but many variations are possible. This is the longest pitch and the best of the three. Belay on a big ledge (5.8+ 130 feet).

P2. Take the corner to the right, and crank up the large dihedral. Per Evan Noronha: you can end this pitch at the large ledge (50 feet) or continue a little further into a smaller right-facing dihedral that drops you into a comfy alcove with a small pine tree, 5.8, 80 feet.

P3. Continue up the right-facing dihedral. The technical crux occurs after #2 Friend placement. This is your last placement for the next 15 feet. Move up through the thin, balancy crux, and finish left on a large ramp. Per Evan Noronha: if you continued to the pine tree alcove, launch into the shallow groove / left-facing corner passing progressively smaller and smaller gear placements until the crack peters out entirely. Continue to run it out (heady but PG-13) straight up through the thin, balancy crux, and finish left on a large ramp. You can finish the climb here by walking left and around a roof feature. Optionally, stretch this pitch 15 feet further by continuing up left side of the roof (5.7), and belay on the low-angle slabs above, 5.8+/9-, 80 feet.

It is another Ament classic.

Per BrokenChairs 88: descent (from P3): walk West to North towards East Blob Rock eventually working your way to the top of Bitty Buttress. Pick up the faint climber's path that starts heading down the gully between Bitty and East Blob. The trail will work its way SW back towards the start of Bitty Buttress. The gully is not super obvious until you're on it, but it is NOT the gully between Bitty  Buttress and East Blob. If you need to downclimb, you're in the wrong spot.

Protection Suggest change

A standard rack.

Lethal block perched on the route! Suggest change

Per Heather Thorne: there is a lethal block perched at the top of Bitty Buttress route. After going through the roof, just to the right of the route on a small ledge just before you top out, there's a large, flat, oval-shaped boulder (about the size of 2 microwaves put together) that hangs halfway off the edge, and rocks when you touch it. I gingerly climbed up and left of it, but it's only a matter of time before someone actually pulls on it and it crashes down on / to the right of the route. BEWARE!

A picture/video here: photos.app.goo.gl/LV9FBQC3u….

Photos

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