Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright
Page Views: 910 total · 4/month
Shared By: Mark Tarrant on Jan 12, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Start about 50' up the gully from The Buzz, just right of a dark chimney. Lots of bolts but not as cushy as it looks. The first bolt allows you to safely clip the second and then pull through a crimpy boulder problem (.12b-ish). Another crux comes at the fourth bolt and then several more small, continuous moves take you past the steep stuff and onto a sloping ramp and a rest. A tricky move on a triangular face leads to a bulge with one more 5.11 move and then the anchor. Some useful beta: Bolts #5 and #6 get clipped from holds above the bolts so you're pulling up very little rope.

As with other routes in this alcove, it's deceptively steep.The route climbs much better than it looks--feeling longer than it is. Fun and sustained on a medley of holds.

Protection Suggest change

11 bolts plus 2-bolt anchor, 80'.