Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Pat Ament & Steve Komito 1964
Page Views: 902 total · 5/month
Shared By: shad O'Neel on Oct 4, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

P1. This adventure route starts on one of the ramps next to the Bitty Buttress route. We chose the v-shaped one. A full pitch (165') of scraggy climbing brings you to a big ledge. The hardest part was a short, steep, finger crack with some loosish blocks at its top. Try not to throw anything on your belayer. In fact, be careful the whole pitch, there were some loosies indeed. Eds. Note this 1st pitch may be part of South. The original pitch may have been one dihedral left, which was described by Patrik as "start with a large, right-facing corner just left of a partially boled route about 30 feet up and left of Bitty Buttress . Pass a ledge, and go up a wide-ish crack (optional #6 Camalot). Pass some loose blocks (carefully!) to a second ledge to belay.

P2. Next scramble left and up, belaying under and on the left of the two prominent roofs.

P3. The third pitch is the nice one, a right-facing dihedral that is steep and fun. This felt to me like a 1964 5.8. Similar difficulty as Bitty Buttress and tops out just to the climber's left of that route. Would be better if first pitch wasnt so scraggy, but is fun.

Protection

Single set of nuts and cams to #3 Camalot. Aliens work well.

Photos

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This route has one of the sweetest top outs in BC; a big grassy ledge with some shade and great views. Be careful with the bush just below the dihedral starts, it can snag your rope. The last pitch can be aided at C1 and provides an excellent link-up with Holy Ascension (C2(+?) or 5.13). Most routes adjacent to A's Jax's third pitch can be accessed by scrambling from the left to the top of Peapod's belay ledge and following easy 4th class to the upper ledge system. Oct 6, 2002
Rodger Raubach  
  5.8
This climb starts on the first pitch of "South," a climb not yet listed here and one I've done 4 times. This start is in a very distinct, right-facing dihedral just 20 feet left of the "Bitty Buttress" route and is 5.7; it protects well. Dec 4, 2011
Patrik
 
Patrik  
 
Do this as described in a guidebook (starting left of a bolted line, which is left of route "South"), NOT sharing the first pitch with route "South". As such, this climb has character and personality! Strong potential for three * rating if a few bushes go. Bring two #4 Camalots (or bump/reuse one) and maybe a #6 if you're not used to some wide 5.8 move. Oct 15, 2018