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Routes in Bitty Buttress
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A Day At The Crag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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A's Jax T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bitty Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Buzz, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Creeping Obscurity T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Electricity T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Holy Ascension T,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c C1-2 |
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Jagged Ascension aka The Hand is Quicker than the Eye T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jaguary T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Jam Left T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jitters, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Lorax, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Moby Dike S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Peach Cobbler S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Peapod T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Quartz Movement T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Razor Hein Stick T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Return To Sender S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Reveille T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Right Crack or Last Crack (aka Mirage?) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rise and Shine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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South T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Speaks For The Trees S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Spins, The T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Treetop Landing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Voices Carry T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Welcome Home S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Vaino Kodas, Moe Hershoff, 2004 |
| Page Views: | 972 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Ivan Rezucha on Aug 16, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2023 - lifted as of 7/26/23
Details
The U.S. Forest lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: As of 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed more info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Federal & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 month closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in BC.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk in BC.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers....
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
From W. McCurry: As of 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed more info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Federal & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 month closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in BC.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk in BC.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers....
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Access Issue: Bitty Buttress reoped 4/15/22
Details
Per K. Reid Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Arapaho & Roosevelt NFS: as of 4/15/22, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are now open.
Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing through July 31, 2022.
Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing through July 31, 2022.
Description
Moby Dike is a pretty good climb in a good location at a prominent quartz dike at the very top of the Blob/Bitty Buttress ridge. It's a bit short given the approach, and the quartz holds are still flaking off. The FA party rated this 5.9, but it felt hard to me. The moves and clips at the 3rd and 4th bolts seemed quite hard, balancy and precarious.
Approach: From the Blob parking pullout, look for the first formation on the skyline right of East Blob. You'll see a steep orange wall with a prominent vertical white dike. Moby Dike climbs the left side of the dike which, not obvious from the road, is a left facing corner. Leaping Lizards, listed in Rossiter, is to the right of the dike. Hike up the trail to Blob and find your way east below Blob Slab to the base of the gully below East Blob. Scramble up a trough on the right of the main gully to a large bench with trees. Follow this right/east to its end, and you'll be below the climb. You could climb up trad from here to the bolt anchors at the start of the climb, but better, reverse your path for about 100', then go up a bit and climb right up a third class ramp past 2 small trees to a ledge. Follow this to its end, then do a short exposed but very easy traverse to the bolt anchors.
The route: Traverse right and make several hard moves up the quartz band. Hand traverse left around the roof (reachy) and then up easy rock to a ceiling. One more hard move over the ceiling leads to the anchors.
Descent: You can reverse the third class approach from the start anchors or rappel with a 60m rope from the top anchors to the next lower level and hike west to rejoin the approach.
Approach: From the Blob parking pullout, look for the first formation on the skyline right of East Blob. You'll see a steep orange wall with a prominent vertical white dike. Moby Dike climbs the left side of the dike which, not obvious from the road, is a left facing corner. Leaping Lizards, listed in Rossiter, is to the right of the dike. Hike up the trail to Blob and find your way east below Blob Slab to the base of the gully below East Blob. Scramble up a trough on the right of the main gully to a large bench with trees. Follow this right/east to its end, and you'll be below the climb. You could climb up trad from here to the bolt anchors at the start of the climb, but better, reverse your path for about 100', then go up a bit and climb right up a third class ramp past 2 small trees to a ledge. Follow this to its end, then do a short exposed but very easy traverse to the bolt anchors.
The route: Traverse right and make several hard moves up the quartz band. Hand traverse left around the roof (reachy) and then up easy rock to a ceiling. One more hard move over the ceiling leads to the anchors.
Descent: You can reverse the third class approach from the start anchors or rappel with a 60m rope from the top anchors to the next lower level and hike west to rejoin the approach.
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