Bitty Buttress Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 7,052 ft | 2,149 m |
GPS: |
40.0018, -105.3869 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 61,073 total · 210/month | |
Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000 | |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Boulder, Colo. (2/1/24) – to protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1, 2024. The closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon.
Per K. Reid Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Arapaho & Roosevelt NFS: as of 4/15/22, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are now open.
Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing through July 31, 2022.
Description
Bitty Buttress has interesting rock with good features and lots of colorful lichen. The approach is a little longer hike than for Blob Rock, but it is well worth it.
It is subject to raptor closures, so check before getting stuck with a hefty fine.
A descent is possible by hiking off the backside of the rock to the NW, then down a gully to the East of Blob Rock.
This is a small crag divided into 4 entirely distinct sections:
L->R:
Up & Left
A. Moby Dike, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
B. Leaping Lizards, 11+, 1p, gear & bolts.
Peapod Buttress
C. Treetop Landing, 9 PG-13, 1p, gear.
D. Palm Saturday, 12, 1p, TR.
E. Razor Hein Stick PG-13, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
F1. Split Pea, 11+, 1p, gear & bolt.
F2. Peapod, 11, 1p, 60', gear.
G. Holy Ascension, 13- or A4, 1p, gear or TR.
H. ??, 12, 1p, gear & bolts.
I1. Jagged Ascension aka The Hand is Quicker than the Eye, 11, 1p, bolts & gear.
I2. Jaguary, 11 R, 1p, gear.
J. Jam Left aka Left Crack, 9+, 1p, 40', gear.
K. Right Crack, 10-, 1p, 70', gear.
Main Buttress
L. Welcome Home, 12, 1p, 40', 4 bolts.
M1. Electricity, 12-, 2p, 150', gear & bolts.
M2N. A Day At The Crags, 8, 2p, 350', gear.
N1. A's Jax, 8, 3p, 200', gear.
? Return To Sender, 12-, 2p, 130', bolts.
above N1. Zero Tolerance, 11, 1p, bolts & gear.
above N1. Moon Doggie, 11, 1p, bolts & gear.
N2. South, 7, 2-3p, 350', gear.
O. Rob's Way, 9 R, 1p, var, joins P.
P. Bitty Buttress, 8+, 3p, gear.
above P. Final Roof, 8, 1p, var to 3rd p of P.
Q. Orange Dihedral, 8, gear, joins P.
Amphitheatre
above R. Peach Cobbler, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
R. The Buzz, 12+, 1p, bolts.
S. The Spins, 12, 1p, 60', gear & bolts.
T. Project, 14?, 1p, bolts.
U. Roof, A3, 1p, gear.
V. The Jitters, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
W1. Rise and Shine, 12-, 1p, 90', bolts.
W2. Reveille, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
X. Speaks For The Trees, 14, 1p, 80', bolts.
Y? Lorax, 13, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
Gully
The Annex
Z. Creeping Obscurity, 7, 1p, 200', gear.
AA. Quartz Movement, 9-, 3p, 270', gear.
Getting There
Lethal block balanced on Bitty Buttress
Per Heather Thorne: there is a lethal block perched at the top of Bitty Buttress route. After going through the roof, just to the right of the route on a small ledge just before you top out, there's a large, flat, oval-shaped boulder (about the size of 2 microwaves put together) that hangs halfway off the edge, and rocks when you touch it. I gingerly climbed up and left of it, but it's only a matter of time before someone actually pulls on it and it crashes down on / to the right of the route. BEWARE!
A picture/video here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/LV9FBQC3uj37zoKP7.
Classic Climbing Routes at Bitty Buttress
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