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Elevation: 7,052 ft 2,149 m
GPS: 40.0018, -105.3869
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 60,989 total · 213/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Bitty Buttress closure 2/1/24 DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Bitty Buttress has interesting rock with good features and lots of colorful lichen. The approach is a little longer hike than for Blob Rock, but it is well worth it.

It is subject to raptor closures, so check before getting stuck with a hefty fine.

A descent is possible by hiking off the backside of the rock to the NW, then down a gully to the East of Blob Rock.

This is a small crag divided into 4 entirely distinct sections:

L->R:

Up & Left

A. Moby Dike, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.

B. Leaping Lizards, 11+, 1p, gear & bolts.

Peapod Buttress

C. Treetop Landing, 9 PG-13, 1p, gear.

D. Palm Saturday, 12, 1p, TR.

E. Razor Hein Stick PG-13, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.

F1. Split Pea, 11+, 1p, gear & bolt.

F2. Peapod, 11, 1p, 60', gear.

G. Holy Ascension, 13- or A4, 1p, gear or TR.

H. ??, 12, 1p, gear & bolts.

I1. Jagged Ascension aka The Hand is Quicker than the Eye, 11, 1p, bolts & gear.

I2. Jaguary, 11 R, 1p, gear.

J. Jam Left aka Left Crack, 9+, 1p, 40', gear.

K. Right Crack, 10-, 1p, 70', gear.

Main Buttress

L. Welcome Home, 12, 1p, 40', 4 bolts.

M1. Electricity, 12-, 2p, 150', gear & bolts.

M2N. A Day At The Crags, 8, 2p, 350', gear.

N1. A's Jax, 8, 3p, 200', gear.

? Return To Sender, 12-, 2p, 130', bolts.

above N1. Zero Tolerance, 11, 1p, bolts & gear.

above N1. Moon Doggie, 11, 1p, bolts & gear.

N2. South, 7, 2-3p, 350', gear.

O. Rob's Way, 9 R, 1p, var, joins P.

P. Bitty Buttress, 8+, 3p, gear.

above P. Final Roof, 8, 1p, var to 3rd p of P.

Q. Orange Dihedral, 8, gear, joins P.

Amphitheatre

above R. Peach Cobbler, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.

R. The Buzz, 12+, 1p, bolts.

S. The Spins, 12, 1p, 60', gear & bolts.

T. Project, 14?, 1p, bolts.

U. Roof, A3, 1p, gear.

V. The Jitters, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.

W1. Rise and Shine, 12-, 1p, 90', bolts.

W2. Reveille, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.

X. Speaks For The Trees, 14, 1p, 80', bolts.

Y? Lorax, 13, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.

Gully

The Annex

Z. Creeping Obscurity, 7, 1p, 200', gear.

AA. Quartz Movement, 9-, 3p, 270', gear.

Getting There Suggest change

Take a path that starts at a pullout on the N. side of the canyon, about 25m west of the pullout to Cob Rock. Hike up this well traveled trail to a fork that heads right. Stay on the trail until you're below Blob Rock. Continue heading East over a little hill, then down to the base of Bitty Buttress. The route "Bitty Buttress" starts above a fallen tree.

Lethal block balanced on Bitty Buttress

Suggest change

Per Heather Thorne: there is a lethal block perched at the top of Bitty Buttress route. After going through the roof, just to the right of the route on a small ledge just before you top out, there's a large, flat, oval-shaped boulder (about the size of 2 microwaves put together) that hangs halfway off the edge, and rocks when you touch it. I gingerly climbed up and left of it, but it's only a matter of time before someone actually pulls on it and it crashes down on / to the right of the route. BEWARE!

A picture/video here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/LV9FBQC3uj37zoKP7.

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bitty Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 275
Bitty Buttress
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 18
Jam Left
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Reveille
Trad, Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 10
Jaguary
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Peapod
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 47
Rise and Shine
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 12
Return To Sender
Sport 2 pitches
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 17
The Buzz
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 12
The Lorax
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bitty Buttress
 275
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Jam Left
 18
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Reveille
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport
Jaguary
 10
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Peapod
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Rise and Shine
 47
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Return To Sender
 12
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
The Buzz
 17
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
The Lorax
 12
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
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