Bitty Buttress Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 7,052 ft |
GPS: |
40.0018, -105.3869 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 59,897 total · 219/month |
Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
W. McCurry, NF Info Deliv. Lead, Arapahoe/Roosevelt NFS: The USFS began annual area closures in BC beginning 2/1/23. The closures include Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Federal & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 month closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in BC.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk in BC.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers....
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing through July 31, 2022.
Description
Bitty Buttress has interesting rock with good features and lots of colorful lichen. The approach is a little longer hike than for Blob Rock, but it is well worth it.
It is subject to raptor closures, so check before getting stuck with a hefty fine.
A descent is possible by hiking off the backside of the rock to the NW, then down a gully to the East of Blob Rock.
This is a small crag divided into 4 entirely distinct sections:
L->R:
Up & Left
A. Moby Dike, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
B. Leaping Lizards, 11+, 1p, gear & bolts.
Peapod Buttress
C. Treetop Landing, 9 PG-13, 1p, gear.
D. Palm Saturday, 12, 1p, TR.
E. Razor Hein Stick PG-13, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
F1. Split Pea, 11+, 1p, gear & bolt.
F2. Peapod, 11, 1p, 60', gear.
G. Holy Ascension, 13- or A4, 1p, gear or TR.
H. ??, 12, 1p, gear & bolts.
I1. Jagged Ascension aka The Hand is Quicker than the Eye, 11, 1p, bolts & gear.
I2. Jaguary, 11 R, 1p, gear.
J. Jam Left aka Left Crack, 9+, 1p, 40', gear.
K. Right Crack, 10-, 1p, 70', gear.
Main Buttress
L. Welcome Home, 12, 1p, 40', 4 bolts.
M1. Electricity, 12-, 2p, 150', gear & bolts.
M2N. A Day At The Crags, 8, 2p, 350', gear.
N1. A's Jax, 8, 3p, 200', gear.
? Return To Sender, 12-, 2p, 130', bolts.
above N1. Zero Tolerance, 11, 1p, bolts & gear.
above N1. Moon Doggie, 11, 1p, bolts & gear.
N2. South, 7, 2-3p, 350', gear.
O. Rob's Way, 9 R, 1p, var, joins P.
P. Bitty Buttress, 8+, 3p, gear.
above P. Final Roof, 8, 1p, var to 3rd p of P.
Q. Orange Dihedral, 8, gear, joins P.
Amphitheatre
above R. Peach Cobbler, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
R. The Buzz, 12+, 1p, bolts.
S. The Spins, 12, 1p, 60', gear & bolts.
T. Project, 14?, 1p, bolts.
U. Roof, A3, 1p, gear.
V. The Jitters, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
W1. Rise and Shine, 12-, 1p, 90', bolts.
W2. Reveille, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
X. Speaks For The Trees, 14, 1p, 80', bolts.
Y? Lorax, 13, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
Gully
The Annex
Z. Creeping Obscurity, 7, 1p, 200', gear.
AA. Quartz Movement, 9-, 3p, 270', gear.
Getting There
Lethal block balanced on Bitty Buttress
Per Heather Thorne: there is a lethal block perched at the top of Bitty Buttress route. After going through the roof, just to the right of the route on a small ledge just before you top out, there's a large, flat, oval-shaped boulder (about the size of 2 microwaves put together) that hangs halfway off the edge, and rocks when you touch it. I gingerly climbed up and left of it, but it's only a matter of time before someone actually pulls on it and it crashes down on / to the right of the route. BEWARE!
A picture/video here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/LV9FBQC3uj37zoKP7.
Classic Climbing Routes at Bitty Buttress
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