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Routes in Bitty Buttress

A's Jax T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bitty Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Buzz, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Creeping Obscurity T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Electricity T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Holy Ascension T,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c C1-2
Jagged Ascension aka The Hand is Quicker than the Eye T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jaguary T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jam Left T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jitters, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lorax, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Milk the Quartz for Pints T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Moby Dike S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Peach Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Peapod T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Return To Sender S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Reveille T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Right Crack or Last Crack (aka Mirage?) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise and Shine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
South T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spins, The T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Treetop Landing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Voices Carry T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Welcome Home S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright
Page Views: 801 total · 4/month
Shared By: Mark Tarrant on Jan 4, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is a semi-trad variation of "Rise and Shine". After the first 5 bolts on "R&S" (.10d) stay right, in the dihedral for another 40' aiming for the anchors on "R&S". The route follows the old aid line in the corner until the aid line takes on the big roof pierced by a thin crack. The upper dihedral is mostly .9+ until the very end (.10b) before the anchor.

This is a fun variation that gives an up-close view of the tempting but intimidating huge wave of rock covering this nicely sheltered alcove.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. 90'. Gear to #3 Friend. Long slings on first two bolts.

Photos

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Rich Farnham  
 
The trad part of this pitch has some great rests, unlike most of the climbs on this section of the wall. Some of the placements are a little funky, but there's more gear than appears from the ground. I was able to sew it up.

Great pitch! Unusual moves through the bolted section, with some great climbing on the steep finish. Strenuous to actually clip the anchor. Jan 30, 2011
Very fun route and great warm up. You really only need a few pieces, medium offset master cams are helpful. 5.10. Nov 19, 2013

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